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Carver 280 overheating
- Ricky mason
- Scurvy Dog
- Posts: 15
- Joined: July 15th, 2018, 1:20 pm
- Vessel Info: Carver 280 -7.3ltr V8 turbo diesel
- Location: England
- Has thanked: 12 times
Re: Carver 280 overheating
- Ricky mason
- Scurvy Dog
- Posts: 15
- Joined: July 15th, 2018, 1:20 pm
- Vessel Info: Carver 280 -7.3ltr V8 turbo diesel
- Location: England
- Has thanked: 12 times
Re: Carver 280 overheating
- Ricky mason
- Scurvy Dog
- Posts: 15
- Joined: July 15th, 2018, 1:20 pm
- Vessel Info: Carver 280 -7.3ltr V8 turbo diesel
- Location: England
- Has thanked: 12 times
Re: Carver 280 overheating
- bud37
- Admiral
- Posts: 4969
- Joined: April 23rd, 2015, 10:22 pm
- Has thanked: 585 times
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Re: Carver 280 overheating

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- CYO Supporter
- Posts: 2311
- Joined: March 28th, 2016, 10:52 pm
- Vessel Info: 1998 Carver 355
Suspicious Fishes !
2022 Kawasaki 310X - Location: upper chesapeake bay
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Re: Carver 280 overheating
Also looks like you need to replaced cracked hoses and maybe some of the fittings are black iron. The need to be stainless or brass. When you address these, add a 90 to the top of the sea cock and you should be able to keep the strainer and feed hose below the water line. I don't know about that "t". I cant think of any reason it should be there. Maybe someone's way to drain the manifolds for winter? Again, hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like its time for a complete new raw water pump assembly not just an impeller. The strainer seats should be able to be cleaned up with some 00 steel wool.
Good luck!
- Ricky mason
- Scurvy Dog
- Posts: 15
- Joined: July 15th, 2018, 1:20 pm
- Vessel Info: Carver 280 -7.3ltr V8 turbo diesel
- Location: England
- Has thanked: 12 times
Re: Carver 280 overheating

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- CYO Supporter
- Posts: 6067
- Joined: July 10th, 2015, 9:58 pm
- Vessel Info: 1989 Carver 3807 Aft Cabin
- Location: Ontario, Canada
- Has thanked: 460 times
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Re: Carver 280 overheating
- the exhaust in the cabin could be a number of things including simply blowing in there if you have a door , hatch or window open. You should confirm the source though so you can take the proper precautions or remedy.
- I'm with Tom on replacing the entire pump. At the very least you need an impeller and the cam looks like it will tear up impellers. My thought though is that you put money into these minor things only to have a major rebuild in the near due to the corrosion where the shaft is and it starts leaking if it isn't already. If the mounting and sealing surfaces in the housing and shaft are bad, the rebuild kit won't do a thing.
- the hoses effeminately need to be replaced and as Bud said, may be contributing to you running dry. Ensure the replacement hoses are marine rated, wire wound and are smooth on the inside and not the same as the outside of the hoses you currently have.
- as Tom said, the seacock looks like it may be cracked, can't tell from that pic if it's scale/rust or cracks
- the fittings on the seacock are not brass or bronze, they should be.
- something doesn't seem right with the size of the hoses or the seacock. The fittings on top of the seacock look like they are reducing the port size. Measure the ports on the pump (1-1/4"?) and that's what you should have from the pump to the thru-hull fitting. I'm also curious to know if the fitting that the hoses are clamped to are barbed fitting or just threaded nipples. They need to be barbed and double clamped.
- you can buy gasket kits for those strainers
- the bonding system wiring and connections need to be cleaned up and the newer wire that's been added is of insufficient gauge.
There are a few issues noted with surrounding systems in the photos but one thing at a time! For now, focus on safety and getting her running.
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