Aftermarket EFI

[dcrahn]

Has anyone switched over to an aftermarket EFI setup, namely the throttle body type? There are so many options out there that I was just wondering what others have used. FiTech, Holley Sniper, and Edelbrock have the setup where the ECU is enclosed in the throttle body. F.A.S.T. has the setup where the ECU is separate but is Marine Certified. I don't really see an issue with the first three because the ECU is sealed in the TB as long as all the connectors are suitable for a marine environment. The F.A.S.T. setup is the most expensive but they have the most experience over the other three with EFI. So if you have used any of these please chime in with your experience.

[Viper]

This is from several years ago and things may have changed since then, I just haven't had the need to work on any recently. I don't recall specific brands but my experience with all the units I've had to respond to have had problems relating to everything from hardware to software. The most common issues were installs not designed for marine applications with the specific advance curves required. In the worst case scenarios after the owners were simply tired of all the BS, the systems were simply removed and the original equipment reinstalled. The easiest trouble free installs I've heard of through colleagues were OEM units pulled off similar engines that had major mechanical failures then installed in earlier models.

Curious, why do you feel the need to switch?

[dcrahn]

Source of the post This is from several years ago and things may have changed since then, I just haven't had the need to work on any recently. I don't recall specific brands but my experience with all the units I've had to respond to have had problems relating to everything from hardware to software. The most common issues were installs not designed for marine applications with the specific advance curves required. In the worst case scenarios after the owners were simply tired of all the BS, the systems were simply removed and the original equipment reinstalled. The easiest trouble free installs I've heard of through colleagues were OEM units pulled off similar engines that had major mechanical failures then installed in earlier models.

Curious, why do you feel the need to switch?

It's pretty much a given that modern day EFI is way more efficient than the old carburetors, so that's the main reason I want to swap. The biggest issue I have read about is that some boaters are having with aftermarket EFI is maintaining a constant engine water temperature (most have to be above 160 degrees) so the ECU can maintain the correct air/fuel ratio and idle speed. But I believe that is on engines using strictly raw water cooling. I am changing mine over to a half system, so I think that will be a non issue. Also in my conversations with the guys at F.A.S.T. they have addressed that issue and have changed the operating parameters of their Marine ECU to compensate for that.

[bud37]

I agree about the EFI, but I have to wonder about the conversions in the marine setting because of two things, the O2 sensors ability to trim fuel and with a boat as you already know the engine head temps never get high enough to get the efficiency of the auto side.Quite honestly after playing around with mine for a while now ( laptop and all), I think if you have a good engine then a new marine distributor with the right curve and a brand new carb ( tuned right ) electric fuel pump and you won't be far off.......the plus being , if something goes wrong you won't need a Vulcan mind meld to figure it out.......just my opinion and two cents....

I do like the high tech stuff though......... ....

[Viper]

Source of the post....It's pretty much a given that modern day EFI is way more efficient than the old carburetors, so that's the main reason I want to swap....

I don't think that "way more efficient" is the term I would use for this type of conversion. Even if it were multi-port injection, you'd still have to carefully weigh whether the conversion is worth the benefit. While the marketing hype might make it look really attractive, there are other real world conditions to consider both operational and whether it makes financial sense. Overall efficiency is will depend largely on regular maintenance which is seldom overlooked. Under some conditions, a failed component unbeknownst to the operator can cause the system to be much less efficient than carbed application. Financially speaking, you'd need to put on way more hours a year than the average boater to notice enough of a benefit for justifying the expense within a reasonable amount of time. The pay back period will be much longer than one realizes. Take the amount of money you'll be spending on hardware including the fresh water conversion, and take savings based on the marketing, the average annual run time and you'll get an idea of the amount of time it'll take to pay for itself. Now take that number and double it because realistically that's what you can expect efficiency wise.

Perhaps the most important thing to consider is how long you're planning on keeping the boat for. While a large percentage of owners tell themselves "This will be my last boat" and therefore a large investment in an upgrade is justified, statistics show it's likely you'll move on to another boat in time. With that in mind, consider this expense. Unless it has paid for itself before you sell, you'll never recover the money spent. One would like to think the conversion would make the sale more attractive and justify a higher asking price, that's rarely the case. What a buyer will focus on the most and use it as a bargaining tool is that either way, the boat is still a 1984 boat. Unless you're keeping this boat for life, the benefit may disappoint you.

Not trying to sway you one way or the other, but I wanted to emphasize a couple of points that should be considered in such an undertaking. There are pros and cons to both systems but don't discard old tech just because it's old, a finely tuned carburetor is still a pretty precise instrument that delivers a good enough efficiency curve making it pretty hard to justify the expense of a retrofit.

[Midnightsun]

The only benefits to modern boat EFI is easy starts and no more pumping. Better fuel optimization when cold started, no more black smoke running rich until it warms up. Slightly better fuel economy but wonder if it can even be measured. Biggest benefit is with the stock systems as they communicate several engine parameters and trouble shooting becomes rather easy, unfortunately this is not part of aftermarket systems.

[Viper]

I forgot to mention that adding a FloScan fuel monitoring system will do more for you than an EFI conversion. It'll tell you what your fuel burn is through various run conditions. In doing so, you'll be running more efficient if you simply adjust accordingly based on the monitor's feedback for a given condition. Acting on that awareness alone will do much more efficiency wise than any EFI conversion alone ever could, and it's way cheaper.

What engine are you running? Is this a twin or single? Is it inboard or sterndrive?

[dcrahn]

I do have lots of experience with FiTech's EFI on one of my Mustangs, and the difference is like day and night on startup, drive-ability and gas mileage. As far as timing curve I'll create my own using my programmable ignition box just like I do on my race car which is a 598 cu in big block that made 1000hp on the engine dyno using two 1050 dominators with no power adders. The engine I'm putting in the boat is a GM350 same as the one coming out but has more power and torque.

I would also like to add, that yes I am old school and use carbs on my race car and when we race I tune for the weather conditions between rounds which constantly change during the day. Carbs can't do the on their own. EFI can and does so in the blink of and eye and more accurately than a human can and as I'm sure that most of you know, conditions on the water can change in the blink of an eye. Just another reason I want to change over.

[bud37]

Good stuff,is the 598 a chev based block?, I hear ya about the tuning, my version a little over 720 hp with stock stroke 440, single 1050 and just race gas, trouble is still have boxes of jets,squirters,metering rods etc etc,collecting dust now.With your experience you will be just fine, it will be good to follow along with your progress....the engine temp control is the only thing that concerns me........

[dcrahn]

Source of the post Good stuff,is the 598 a chev based block?, I hear ya about the tuning, my version a little over 720 hp with stock stroke 440, single 1050 and just race gas, trouble is still have boxes of jets,squirters,metering rods etc etc,collecting dust now.With your experience you will be just fine, it will be good to follow along with your progress....the engine temp control is the only thing that concerns me........

Big block Ford. I would change over to a Ford in the boat, but doing that will just add more cost to the restoration. I will be changing over from the raw water cooling to a 1/2 system cooling the block only plus I won't be using fresh water. I'll be using Evans Waterless Coolant same as my street cars, good stuff.