What bilge pump is this?

[CptBacardi]

This is one of the 3 main bilge pumps. It trips the breaker. I have no idea what brand model it is? Any ideas? Thanks

[CptBacardi]

If I put the helm switch to auto, the breaker does not trip and the pump does not run. Although the float is in the upward “turn on” position. If I set the helm switch to continuos, then the breaker will trip in about 2 seconds. I don’t have enough time to tell if the pump tries to run or not before the breaker trips. ??? Is the float switch not working too?

[CptBacardi]

I figured out it’s an old Attwood 1500. It has a mounting base where 3 screws could go in around the outside of the bottom of it, but there aren’t any screws. It does look like a wooden block is mounted under it. I don’t see any screws anywhere, but it’s firmly in place. Is it possible this thing was glued on? If so, what do I have to pry it off? I also don’t see any tabs to remove to strainer, like on a Rule?

Best replacement I can find is a Rule 1500. Can I add a float switch to those so it can operate with my 3 way helm switch (auto, off, on)? Any other suggestions?

[km1125]

I would say the float switch is not working, or there is a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker on the 'auto' side. If yours is like mine, there is a separate breaker for the "auto" vs the "manual" path.

That is an old RULE bilge pump. You might have some debris or some gunk stuck on the impeller, which is supposed to trip the breaker or blow the fuse (the "locked rotor" situation). I'd pull it out and inspect/clean. If you can't get it running, then time to replace. I would also test the float switch while the pump is out. Any chance for an intermittent switch and I'd replace it with a known good one.

I wouldn't just replace the pump... those old ones were probably built better than what's on the market nowadays. However, if you can't get it to run reliably, then I'd replace it.

[km1125]

Are you sure it's an Attwood? That looks nearly identical to mine that were the same vintage.

The bottom plate for the pump is bolted to the bracket. The pump does snap off that plate so you can get to the screws. I didn't realize that until I took the whole bracket out with the pump the first time I worked on them.

Yes, you could put in a new pump with a new float switch and wire so that you have auto and manual at the helm.

BTW... you switch should not be "auto/manual/off".. it should only be "auto/manual" There shouldn't be a way to inadvertently leave your bilge pumps in the "OFF" mode!! You could always kill the breakers if you need to stop power though.

[CptBacardi]

Yes, it says Attwood 1500 on the top. I see no damn way to remove it? The bottom mount has 3 places where screws can go, but there are no screws in it. It snaps off, how? Thanks

[CptBacardi]

Here’s one of the screw holes, with no screw. I don’t see any snaps or anything like a Rule has?

[km1125]

You might use a phone or camera to take pictures around the base to see where the clips are. My Rule looks the same way with the external screw holes with no screws. Once I popped the motor off the base, I found the three screws that actually held it to the base.

[CptBacardi]

I called Attwood. She said this model was named (while snickering) the “Big Bulge”! We had quite the laugh before moving on, lol! She spoke with a few other folks in the office and told me that it’s a slip fit. Just twist and pull on the motor to remove it from the base. From there I should be able to tell if it’s screwed on or epoxy. I’ll be back down to the boat this weekend and will provide the updates! Have a Bulging Friday!

[CptBacardi]

Replaced the bilge. The breaker still trips after a few seconds. The pump does run during that time. I removed the breaker. It’s 7.5a rated, the pump says it needs a 12a breaker. I put another known good breaker from another bilge in place, and it trips it too. Sooo, I was thinking about getting Carlingtonswitch AA1-B0-34-610 -5D1-C, which is 10a, with a trip rating of 12.5. There is also a 15a option. Both of them seem to hVe much higher max volt ratings (244 instead of 65 like the old one. They also seem to be threaded for screws on the bottom tabs, which I don’t know if that means anything. Anyone in the know have a recommendation? Pictured is what I pulled out.