396 Aft waste tank hose access

[thatchh]

Hello All,
I am preparing to change all the hoses to the aft waste system in my 2004 396. Two of the long hoses in the system (toilet to vacuum pump, and pumpout line) connect to PVC pipes way down in the bilge. About the only way I can see to access those fittings is to remove the port muffler. Anyone have any tricks or suggestions to avoid that big job? If I remove the cabinet next to the bed, would that give me some access?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Thatchh

[mjk1040]

First I have to ask why? Second isn't there a hatch cover under the aft cabin rug between aft head and berth to access this system? If the answer to why is smell, may I suggest making sure the aft shower sump is clean and that you try more water when flushing. Both common causes of smell, not that hoses don't go bad, but your boat is 6 years newer than our 355 and we have no smell or leak issues yet! Is the PVC you mention ridged or flexible?

[thatchh]

MJK, Thanks for the reply. The pipe is rigid pvc plumbing pipe (sch 40?) I have done the old damp rag test on the hoses, and they are definitely permeated. You have had better success than I if your hoses have no odor. I have had to replace sanitation hoses at around 10 years on other boats I have owned. It might be because boating is year-round in Seattle. I also have a separate shower smell issue that appears to be due to leaking of a seam and water sitting under the pan. The shower and sink drain lines are moldy on the inside in spots, but don't leak at all. The sump itself is ok. I have cleaned it recently, and it doesn't leak. I have been able to see what looks like an access panel in the back of the cabinet to access the hard line junction, but have not yet had time to verify. I have a removable hatch to access the shower sump, but the carpet on the floor over the pipes is pretty well fastened down. If I need to, I will try pulling it up. I will report back when I know for sure for the benefit of other 396 owners.

[DanM]

When I did mine about 8 years ago on the same boat i removed the bed’s plywood mattress platform and with a hair dryer for hose expansion, liquid soap as hose lubricant and some contortionist moves I was able to slide the new hose on to the pvc pipe along with clamps, without pulling the night stand. Doing so might made the job easier.

Kudos to Carver for using pvc on the long, under the flooring run. Using sanitation hose which have had to be snaked around would have been far move difficult and expensive.

As with many previous owners who think a boat is built the same as their house, mine used the heads indiscriminately without concern (or much water). If you apply due care, appropriate chemistry, lots of water for flushing and use of the marina’s head for #2 when reasonable, head hoses can last a very very long time without leaching. The 396 has two 36 gal holding tanks which is substantial capacity so extra water for flushing and regular weekend (or every other day when traveling) cleaning doesn’t have you rationing usage between pump outs. Best of luck on the project.

[DanM]

Btw I had no issue with the PVC pipe. Homes have been using it for decades without leaching. Are you sure the PVC is part of the problem?

[mjk1040]

Thanks for the reply. Good luck with your project, hoping it goes smoothly.

[Viper]

When you say rigid PVC, I assume you mean it's the type that does not bend at all. If that's the case, it should not permeate. Rigid PVC and ABS do not permeate, it's only the flexible hoses that do and that is dependent on the type of toilet/system used, how you use them, and how the plumbing is run. If the rigid PVC smells it may be due to being exposed to an area with that odour for years, but it shouldn't be the source. Also try checking the connections at both ends of it, those are typical areas to look for leaks.

[thatchh]

Viper, and Dan m,
Thanks for the replies. I did not mean to give the impression that there was any odor from rigid PVC pipe. The odor is all in the flexible hoses as you suggested. Our boat use is often multiple days or multiple weeks most of which are spent at anchor. There are seldom marina restrooms to use. With four people on board, our water gets used up pretty fast, so extra flushing is not a good option. I will actually be installing a water maker this winter for next summer's trip from Seattle to Alaska which will help with the water consumption. Anyway, it turns out that removing the cabinet was quite easy, and there is a lovely access hole behind it. Carver even finished it and painted it so there's no sharp fiberglass to fight with. Now I can access those hose ends quite easily, as well as the vent connection. I should be able to replace all the hoses coming from the tank in short order.

1572576540084589736635.jpg

[Viper]

Wish the rigid stuff was used more often. It should be anywhere waste will sit/remain in the line which is most of the run in electric and manual applications. With a Vacuflush system, the vacuum/suction side of the run from the toilet to the pump should always be empty but the pressure side may have waste in it depending on how the run is laid out. It should preferably be down hill from the pump to the tank so nothing sits in the line.

[DanM]

Thatchh, I have removed the other nightstand to replace the freshwater hose bib but never that one. thanks for sending the picture and the commentary on the accessibility on what’s behind it.