Crusader 350XL 5.7 270HP LOCKED 94 Carver 300

[ariannamarie1026]

Hello Everyone, I need some advice! We’re first-time boat owners of a 1994 Carver 300 Aft Cabin with twin Crusader 350 XL 5.7 engines, purchased in late 2021. The engines were rebuilt in 2019 at 535 hrs, purchased at 578 hrs and only put on 31 hrs. The boat is in FL and we are in IL are we were only going down once every 3 months until last year. After an oil change in July 2024, we used the boat for a week and closed it up. In October, Hurricane Milton hit, destroying the enclosure, but that appeared to be all until we arrived a few days later and tried starting the boat, and the port engine started right up but nothing from the starboard engine not even a click. We attempted to replace the starter and turn it manually but it is locked. We had 3 mechanics come out and they believe there are signs of water intrusion. The insurance company wants the engine taken apart further to determine liability, but we’ve already spent $2,000 on assessments, and we are paying $575 a month for slip fees plus insurance. I just want to sell the boat now due to my mom getting ill and I can no longer travel. We have contacted the FL department of insurance for intervention but all they said was the insurance has the right to determine liability and have the engine further disassembled and if they believe the engine had signs of intrusion from faulty parts we have to pay for the tear down. We’re considering selling the boat with one non-working engine but cannot find a broker who will list with 1 working engine. We want advice on whether to proceed with repairs while managing ongoing costs or sell as is. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Cooler]

There is way too much unknown about this situation. First off, Crusader engines being rebuilt at 535 hours?? That is smelly. Why was that done? It does sound like a condition of aqua-lock, meaning water in the piston cylinders. I guess the surge of water during a hurricane could make it's way up the exhaust system. There are baffles that stop water surging back to the motor, but only when engine is running. I assume it is salt water, which does not help. Having said that, the circumstances dictate the result. The only way anybody is going to buy the vessel is with adjustment for worst possible situation, so spend the repair expense now or eat it at sale. The only chance you have to come out with a reasonable end result, is to fix and take the risk of insurance analysis. At least you would have FL insurance commissioner to go back to if you think you are getting hosed. You are stuck between a rock and a hard spot. Sorry this is happening to you. Hope the insurance company treats you right, but that is not typical. Good luck. er

[ariannamarie1026]

@ Cooler, Thanks for your response. I have no idea why the engines were rebuilt at those low hours. The original listing when we bought was https://www.curtisstokes.net/motor-yach ... 80304.html. We really thought about moving forward with tearing down the engine, but I truly don't have a reliable marine mechanic. Hence the 3 different mechanics assessing the engine. Any idea what the cost to rebuild or buy new engine? or what she could sell for with 1 good engine? I just posted her for sale for $18,000. Paid $45,000 in 2021.

[km1125]

I wonder what the oil looks like. Also, you might have someone pull the spark plugs to see if any have evidence (or actual) water in them.

[bud37]

Source of the post I wonder what the oil looks like. Also, you might have someone pull the spark plugs to see if any have evidence (or actual) water in them.

Yeh I agree......if the engine is stuck and was never turned over full of water then it can be saved IMO if it didn't sit for a great length of time. Too bad ya can't find a decent mechanic to consider that, or maybe they have ??
FYI....Try not to attempt to turn the engine by hand with that crank bolt, risk of breaking that is big.

I guess if ya just want out then someone will come along and buy it from you.....I can see the merit in that as well. Good luck going forward, really too bad about all the circumstances.

[ariannamarie1026]

@km1125, thanks for your post. The mechanic did check the oil and said it looked good, no signs of water in the oil. Removed I believe 5 of the spark plugs, if I remember correctly he could not easily remove 3 of them and left them on and added penetrating oil in there to soak and came back in a week and removed the pulley from the harmonic balancer and tried to turn the engine. I think he realized after removing the pulley he didn't need to. The mechanic said there was corrosion around the starter, alternator and shift case indicating that water may have come in during a surge possibly through the exhaust or maybe he said manifold. Insurance is saying the port engine is fine indicating it was a part failure or a faulty seal on the starboard engine and therefore they would not be liable.

[Cooler]

You are in a tough spot. If the mechanic would provide a statement saying the water surged in from the exhaust, maybe the insurance company would be compelled to do some sort of partial settlement. Who is the insurance carrier? It is amazing how the insurance companies will accept your premiums with no problem, but then as soon as you need them....

Good luck! er

[ariannamarie1026]

We have Progressive. The mechanic wrote in his expert opinion the engine has water intrusion but would need further tear down to confirm water got into the engine and how.

[Viper]

Wonder if the manifolds are RWC or FWC? If RWC were they replaced during the rebuild or are they original? Did the risers if applicable, and the elbows get replaced/inspected? A failure in any of these can lead to water intrusion. Raw water cooled (RWC) exhaust components don't last long in a salt water application unless they get flushed with fresh water after every run.

[waybomb]

I'm not clear. We're all 8 plugs removed before attempting to turn over the engine?
Borescope each cylinder. Then put a couple ounces of dexron in each hole and let it sit for a week.
Really should remove the damper and use a crank hub tool with a 4 foot breaker bar. Use the crank hub tool and work the crank back and forth forcefully. Don't do this with the bolt, you'll just loosen it one way and probably break it the other way.
Once you get it free, rotate many many times to get as much oil out of the cylinders as possible. Then pull the distributors and use an oil pump drive to to drive the oil pump with a drill to circulate oil extensively. Then change the oil.
I've freed quite a few engines this way, including the two in my 3697 that sat outside unused for ten years.