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replacing an old ice maker

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jeffceo
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replacing an old ice maker

Postby jeffceo » March 17th, 2014, 9:31 pm

My '87 Carver Aft Cabin (3807), had a U-Line ice maker that has long since been put out to pasture. I removed it, sent it in for an estimate to repair, only to learn it just wasn't worth it to repair. So, I priced a new U-line...HOLY COW! The least expensive ice maker seems to be the EdgeStar, but it gets horrific reviews. I then thought of just putting an ice chest in the space the ice maker left behind and simply fill it with bagged ice, but couldn't find anything to match those dimensions. Any thoughts or creative ideas for an ice maker or ice chest?

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Re: replacing an old ice maker

Postby Ramsport47 » March 18th, 2014, 6:20 am

Unfortunately, icemakers are expensive! I would stay away from the "budget" brands as everyone knows..."you get what you pay for". Raritan, ULine, Mermaid, Isotherm should all be good ones.
Kenny
1998 Carver 310 Santego
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Re: replacing an old ice maker

Postby SHEMP » March 18th, 2014, 11:49 am

Do you know whats wrong with it? Is it the refrigeration? Is it the Ice cube module ? This is really a simple machine.
I replaced the module on my Raritan myself. I found the unit at Sears parts. Its the identical unit , used in household refrigerators. Mine cost me $180 Canadian. Every fastener and the wiring including the exact colour code was the same.
If its the refigeration , its such a tiny unit and competent refrigeration repair shop can do it.
It took me a little while to find my part but it was actually in stock at Sears.
In my opinion , I would have a good look at your unit and fix it your self.
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Re: replacing an old ice maker

Postby waybomb » March 18th, 2014, 1:34 pm

And you can do a search online for repairing the circuit boards yourself.
Don't buy a new unless yours is just plain ugly.
If you do decide to buy new, shop excessively - there are deals to be had out there!
Thanks
Fred
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Re: replacing an old ice maker

Postby jeffceo » March 18th, 2014, 1:53 pm

Thank you very much for your responses. I will take you up on repairing it ,yself. My instincts about buying something cheap were accurate. You end up throwing good money after bad. then you end up half way to the cost of doing the right thing anyway.
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Re: replacing an old ice maker

Postby uaesi » March 26th, 2014, 5:23 pm

Just my 2 cents...I owned a 3608 aft cabin and had the same problem with a salon Icemaker. We bought an off brand (something with "star" in the name) for $288. It worked for fine and was extremly quiet for the 3 years I had the boat before selling (I assume it still works). The unit was only about 1/4 inch wider and 1/2 inch taller than the one removed...oh, BTW I did have to change a inlet valve (my fault it broke) and it was exactly the same PN as Kenmore! Beats $1000+++ any day!
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Re: replacing a stand-up refrigerator

Postby Kirt » April 22nd, 2014, 6:44 pm

Anyone replace a refrigerator in 2000 Carver 356...looking for ideas and costs.
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Re: replacing an old ice maker

Postby cpoint » October 10th, 2016, 12:20 am

Hi again. I know the last posting here is from Apr 22, 2014, but closest to my issue at hand, so I'll piggy back to this. Every time I get to the boat, new issue pops up. Today noticed the refrigerator was off. I checked the DC panel had refrigerator switch ON. It was on for last 6 months with no problem. last week I replaced all 3 batteries and figured won't be needing refrigerator a lot for now, so turned it OFF. When I got to it today turned it back on but heard no noise, no green light. I am hoping it is just some breaker somewhere (where I do not know). Any one can let me know 2000 carver 356 aft cabin, if there is a breaker possibly tripped?

Also should the refrigerator work if I am on shore power and have the 2 receptacles ON for shore power side while refrigerator is OFF on DC panel side? Last week I was playing with combinations of DC power ON , refrigerator ON and also both OFF bit receptacles ON for AC side of panel, maybe I tripped some breaker at that time...

I surely do not want to even consider replacing a refrigerator now... :help:
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Re: replacing an old ice maker

Postby mjk1040 » October 10th, 2016, 5:23 am

Sorry Cpoint! afraid ur going to have to bite the bullet on the fridge. I don't remember seeing any fuses on top of the fridge when I helped another boater install a new one, but double check, I do believe everything is on top of the fridge and ur going to have to pull it out of the cabinet to get to it I'm afraid. Receptacle's need to be on for AC power supply, I believe its the top receptacle breaker, the DC breaker has to be on for 12 volt supply and the batteries need to be on too. Look at the bright side, u got all winter to shop for one and u may find a deal.
Mike :down:
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Re: replacing an old ice maker

Postby Viper » October 10th, 2016, 9:05 am

cpoint wrote:Source of the post.......should the refrigerator work if I am on shore power and have the 2 receptacles ON for shore power side while refrigerator is OFF on DC panel side?......

You don't mention whether you had the refrigerator AC breaker ON. If it works on AC but not DC, you could have a DC supply issue or a board problem in the refrigerator.

The circuitry in an AC/DC refrigerator is designed such that when both AC and DC breakers are on, and you're plugged into shore power, the refrigerator will operate off the AC supply. If the AC power shuts down, the refrigerator switches automatically to the DC source. So if the DC side is shut off, the AC side will still power up your refrigerator as long as there is power and the breaker is ON.

If it's not working on AC either, do you have a separate AC breaker labeled/dedicated to the refrigerator? Some boat wiring is such that the refrigerator supply is combined with other outlets, so it would get its power from let's say a port receptacle breaker for example. In other words, it's not a dedicated refrigerator circuit. If this is the case, you could have a tripped GFI outlet typically in one of the heads, or a faulty outlet where the refrigerator outlet is wired to, or a poor connection.

Before you go out shopping for another one, check to ensure you're actually getting power at the refrigerator outlet itself, and are getting 12 volts supply measured at the refrigerator.

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