Carver Owners Forum

Here we go new season, new problem I turned up the seacock on to de-winterize the AC unit. then I went to turn power on and all well. Then I switched the AC water pump and breaker tripped. Did it 2-3 times same. There is quiet a bit of rust, not sure that has anything to do with, maybe loose wiring? It worked flawless last season. So there is power, when I turn AC power on power comes on behind the kitchen table. But trips when I turn the water pump for AC on.. Do I need to replace the whole pump? or the thing hanging from it? see pictures. Thanks guts in advance.

That's a capacitor in the box crazy amount of rust the pump is shorted there's probably a leak going on on the pump seal to the motor it would be best to replace the whole pump imo

Yep! I think it's toast!

Capacitor is testable.
Disconnect power.
Take a screwdriver and short between the two connectors.
Now pull the wires off.
Get a an old analog meter like a Simpson..
Set to the middle range of ohns.
While watching the meter, touch both leads to the capacitors posts. Does not matter with which lead to which post. A good cap will show the meter move to the right, then sweep back to the left as it charges.
Now short the leads out again, if that's a good cap it will shock you if you don't short it out.
Note check each post to the case of the cap.
Should not see continuity.
I bet the cap is bad and can be bought at almost any heating and air conditioning shop.

Yes the capacitor can be tested but with all that rust there's something going on with pump seals I think it's going to still be a problem wat er and a 120v volt motor wont get along

Thanks guys, i agree with you. Was not too expensive. So i ordered new pump. Looks like an easy swap. I'll update you guys nex week after replacing.

My A/C seawater pump died last summer. I ordered a new pump. Mine was a sealed unit most likely easier to replace than try to repair.

One other question, is this just a connector (Y or T)? I looked online and cant find one exactly like it. Can I use a PVC T connector? I am talking about the T connection that's attached to the white part of the motor with one IN and 2 OUT hoses

Yep, just a T connector to what I must assume is supplying 2 AC units. PVC will work fine as this is what is used in the picture. Personally I would come out of the pump with a single line and then a little farther away use a Y in place of a T as the flow will be less restricted. Something like this comes to mind, just need the correct size and glue in the hose barbs for your application. https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?p=PV ... inc=detail

Why not use the current setup? Did it get damaged?

By the way, did you check to see if that unit is ignition proof?? On a tip from a distributor, I confirmed that not all the models of that type of pump are. Since that tip, I always check now and have found a few installations that were not safe for a gasoline engine compartment. To err on the side of caution, I go with sealed units now. Not only is there no guessing if they're safe, but they're submersible, so if you get water on them for what ever reason like during winterizing a system, you don't have to worry about it.