Carver Owners Forum

I checked power supply at the switch and at the Jabsco solenoid and had just over 12v at both, so the switch appears to be functioning. Tomschauer had mentioned to bypass the impeller. I was not sure if I needed it to pull fresh water to the bowl. Can this be done by just removing the impeller itself from the shaft within the housing? I have great pressure from the dock water but its not reflected in the flow through the solenoid to the bowl.

You want to route the fresh water hose outlet of your solenoid directly to the toilet bowl (rear near the top) this will totally bypass the raw water impeller.

What I did was run the fresh water hose from the solenoid to the existing raw water line at the bowl and T'ed it into that line before the impeller. Then I shut the sea cock off for the raw water line and figured the fresh water would be pulled in. But I think the water flows to slow because of vacuum created by the impeller, so I plan on removing the impeller from the shaft to see what happens.

Wayne162 wrote:Source of the post What I did was run the fresh water hose from the solenoid to the existing raw water line at the bowl and T'ed it into that line before the impeller. Then I shut the sea cock off for the raw water line and figured the fresh water would be pulled in. But I think the water flows to slow because of vacuum created by the impeller, so I plan on removing the impeller from the shaft to see what happens.

It will be very interesting to see how much quieter the head gets with the impeller gone as I am contemplating doing something along the same lines.If you don't mind keep us posted.

Will do. My reason is to try and get rid of using saltwater to get the odor out.

Hey Ya'll,
I have successfully converted my OEM aft Raritan raw water (Saltwater) head to fresh water. This issue has bothered me for sometime now, but I have finally, finally started down the path to a fresher smelling boat. I had marine plumbers tell me it would cost about $6000 to do both heads. I did the aft head for about $50. I will now also do the forward head the same way since I know my method worked. Then I plan to clean the carpets and upholstery to end the nightmare.

How I did it:
First I tried a Jabsco solenoid valve with a back-flow prevented. It cost $145.00 and a lot of wasted time before I determined with Jabsco that the valve was defective. It is a garbage valve.

I then purchased a US Solid stainless steel solenoid valve for $39.00.

I connected into an aft freshwater line, then installed my own back-flow preventer (Home Depot). I installed a 1/2 inch water valve after the back flow preventer and before the valve. I then looped the waterline to the US Solid valve. (Make sure you follow the water flow direction arrow on the valve) I then ran the water supply from the valve to the impeller housing at the base of the Raritan, and Tee'ed it into the existing raw water supply and shut the sea cock off. Water did not flow strong enough with the impeller and fresh water. I removed the impeller and neoprene washers and replaced the housing with new gasket sealant. I connected the 12v head flush switch to the solenoid valve and ran my ground to the macerator motor. Once tested, the unit worked flawlessly on both dock and pump water. I regulated the water pressure through the 1/2 inch water valve. Also you will need a new 99 cent 1/2 inch ribbed elbo to 3/4 to replace the inlet at the top of the back of the head where the flush water enters the bowl. The OEM elbo has a deodorizer inlet that you won't need, and you need to get the hose all the way on and clamp it or it will leak due to high pressure flushes.

Once done, within a day or two I noticed my septic / sulfer smell stronger forward in the boat than aft identifying that the aft head was no longer permeating odor in my boat. Note: previously I also had replaced my septic lines found in my other post's.

See attached photo's.....

Looks good...nice job,..... is there any change in the delay when the flush starts now from before. We have a different head , but also how is the noise level now.

My flush is instant with no delay at this point. The impeller is removed, so its maybe a little less noise but the macerator still engages and that is where most of the noise comes from.

looks good, but I would still cut out the "t" and bypass the original head pump housing, thus eliminating potential leaks and extra time to winterize, if you winterize in SC.