Carver Owners Forum

We just purchased a 1993 Mariner 330. AC and heat were working great, but recently started tripping the breakers as soon and the compressor tries to start. The unit looks like the original MarinAire 16K. We are hoping that it is just a bad start capacitor, but in the interest of planning would like to know how in the heck you get in to replace the unit. I read a post from Cooler that said he had a 330 and would have to take the galley cabinets out. Looking last night we could not figure out how to get the cabinets out. Any insight from the experts?

That is a confusing issue. I asked a guy that used to manage a service dept at Carver. His answer was, " you do not have to pull out the cabinets. The unit will slide out of the access area under the sink, it just looks real tight." Apparently, you have to remove the piece that has the hinged top piece. BUT, how the heck would you disconnect the electrical and duct connections? I think he was not recalling the actual configuration. I never did replace. I did find out the unit needs a lot of air flow for A/C. Heat not as much. I cleaned the filter just in front of the unit, and then I leave the door open under the sink and turn on a fan to push more air in. Are you getting a CLP error code? Finally, do you have an access panel under your dinette seat? If you replace, let us know how you got the unit out. Thanks. er

Thanks for the input, Cooler. Funny what you say about air flow. It was the day that we cleaned 27 years of dirt off the filter that it started tripping breakers. We are getting no error codes, It just pegs out the amps when the compressor tries to start up and trips the breaker immediately.

I'm pulled out my whole AC on 1996 Carver 330. Removed door under sink with frame and wall on the left (all in one piece. then shelfs and small wall. No filter found on AC evaporator coil nasty. Clean it with foam and put back. works fine but noisy-compressor may die soon.

Raggedy Hobo wrote:Source of the post I'm pulled out my whole AC on 1996 Carver 330. Removed door under sink with frame and wall on the left (all in one piece. then shelfs and small wall. No file found on AC evaporator coil nasty. Clean it with foam and put back. works fine but noisy-compressor may die soon.

Thanks for your input, Hobo. What do you mean no file found on ac evap? Not sure how you pulled that out all in one piece. Ours is screwed into the countertop with a million screws in l brackets. I'm thinking of removing the sink and lifting it out.

No filter, sorry. AC secured tu the floor with 4 screws and 4 bracketsthe

Usually a bad start cap will not trip the breaker, but will cause the compressor to trip on internal thermal overload. If you can get to the compressor terminals, check resistance between the terminals and to ground. If you have any reading to ground, the compressor is shorted and shot. If you don't know how to do this replace the start cap for about $10 bucks. If the breaker still trips, odds are your compressor is toast.

Raggedy Hobo wrote:Source of the post No filter, sorry. AC secured tu the floor with 4 screws and 4 bracketsthe

Thanks for the clarification! If you have a picture of how you took the door and wall off that sure would help. That wall where the air vent and radio are on the end of the counter are screwed into the counter with a million screws.

In my aft compartment where the A/C unit was, it was screwed together similarly. You don't need to take the whole bracket off, just the screws that go into the top. Then remove the top and you have full access to the unit. The screws are very short (3/4" usually) and it's just the first turn or so that's tight, so taking them out is pretty quick.