Carver Owners Forum

The heat exchanger inside the hot water heater is just a loop. There might be some water still inside (which you could blow out with air but don't need to). If you fill the water tank and pressurize the potable side with either the on-board pump or a shorewater connection, NOTHING should come out of the heat exchanger fittings on the water heater. If anything does, then there's a problem.

Thank you for your help. So, disconnecting the engine heat exchanger lines - looping it - there should not be any water from the heat exchanger input. This is great and we will try it. Anything else we should think about on this before we try this?

thanks again

Hi again.

We are losing water and think that there is a problem with the heat ex changer causing the water loss. If we do not cap off the heat exchanger - and there is a crack etc in it, wouldn't the water escape from it? So, should we cap it off to see if that is where the water is going?
thank you

I wouldn't cap it off at first, so you can VERIFY that it's actually leaking out where it shouldn't.

After that, you COULD cap it off and continue to use the heater, but I wouldn't use it as drinking water because you've then confirmed that there's a 'breach' in the potable water side. (well, it's hot water so you probably wouldn't be drinking it anyways)

Good morning. New question please...

Our boat lists to starboard. Granted, there are a lot of things on the starboard side (fridge, console, cabinets with dishes), I have a 50lb outboard on the aft starboard rails. Any recommendations or thoughts? I suppose I could load up more fuel on the port tank to try and compensate. Thanks!

My 3607 always listed to starboard. The big AC units would have been mounted on the Port side but the boat wasn't equipped with them, so that was a big chunk of weight. I just would run with a bit more fuel on the port side to even it out. On a trip, I could fill both tanks full, but then run both engine on the starboard tank for a bit to run it down, then switch the port engine back to the port tank.

How much is the list and is that with all the bilges dry ?

Hi Steve: we are having the same problem on our 1986 2807. I’d love it if you would keep us informed on your progress.

Hello everyone.

So, finally we isolated the cold water lines from the hot water tank. We actually have a valve in line now to shut off water going to the hot water tank.

The pump and water performance at the tap is as it should be. There is a small accumulator in the system that is faulty (another matter), but we are not losing water and the pressure is being maintained with the taps closed.

So, there must be a crack in the heat exchanger within the hot water tank.

For our next trial, we are going to remove the lines to the heat exchanger, loop them and plug off the in/out ports on the hotwater tank for the engine lines. This way we can determine if we still have hot water using A/C.

Not sure if it is worth replacing the heat exchanger - or just replacing the 18 year old tank.

Thanks everyone

You can't replace the heat exchanger in the tank, at least not without a lot of work and expense, it's not worth it. Replace the tank if you want the heat from the engine feature to work. In any case, it's probably just a matter of time before the 18 year old tank starts to leak anyway. AND make sure who ever winterizes the engines that they do it properly and include the hot water heater exchanger lines next time. That's likely what caused the failure.