Carver Owners Forum

Have to say I agree with much of the above posts, good advice so far.......remember from an earlier post about making the 12v runs short.Considering what you are saying about all this huge amount of cable, that much cable would overwhelm me for sure....could you put the inverter very near the intended battery location, then the long run would be the 120 line to the panel or the shore power feed if that is what you want, also considering the use will be away from shore power and no gen running there is no need to worry about the auto switching.

Would the aft bilge not be cooler anyway, only the gen there ?........

So after some more consideration of your situation, it seems that if you are changing from the existing house bank of one battery to four 6volt, the only way to have short runs at all would be if your new bank was between the engines and the inverter and charger were all in the engine compartment or very close to it.......seems you are stuck a bit.......is there a compromise that would meet both needs I wonder......

I asked if you have a generator but given that you have automatic transfer solenoids, that answers my question. I would use the generator for larger loads and limit inverter operation to smaller loads. Microwaves however, even though they can draw quite a bit, they don't get used for very long at any given time unless that's how you do most of your cooking. Generator or not, even if you only use the inverter for small loads, you must a wire size rated for the full load capacity that the inverter is designed to deliver (peak load).

You need to get the bank and inverter closer together. The Promariner 2000W for example draws 200 amps and requires 0 awg wire for a unit mounted 5 feet from the source with no more than a 10% voltage drop, so you can imagine what it will take when it's a 40 foot run. If the batteries are in the engine compartment, remember that you must use an ignition protected fuse (ANL) no more than 7" away from the positive terminal to be in compliance with ABYC standards.

Viper wrote:Source of the post I asked if you have a generator but given that you have automatic transfer solenoids, that answers my question. I would use the generator for larger loads and limit inverter operation to smaller loads. Microwaves however, even though they can draw quite a bit, they don't get used for very long at any given time unless that's how you do most of your cooking. Generator or not, even if you only use the inverter for small loads, you must a wire size rated for the full load capacity that the inverter is designed to deliver (peak load).

You need to get the bank and inverter closer together. The Promariner 2000W for example draws 200 amps and requires 0 awg wire for a unit mounted 5 feet from the source with no more than a 10% voltage drop, so you can imagine what it will take when it's a 40 foot run.

The 40 foot is if I installed the 4 6v batteries in the back of the boat. In the battery well inbetween the engines the round trip is 12 feet which I think is doable. The reason I brought up the long run is that becomes the alternative if I can’t use the 10 3/8” side area for the 6 volts. Think I am ok there. If not, I agree I have to move the inverted back with the batteries. Which may be doable if absolutely necessary. Sorry for the confusion.

bud37 wrote:Source of the post So after some more consideration of your situation, it seems that if you are changing from the existing house bank of one battery to four 6volt, the only way to have short runs at all would be if your new bank was between the engines and the inverter and charger were all in the engine compartment or very close to it.......seems you are stuck a bit.......is there a compromise that would meet both needs I wonder......

I think so. See my reply to Viper

Sorry guys. Was out in the yard all day. I do have a generator. Ice maker would be Intermittent, more during Vol Navy tailgates, less when just my wife and I. Usage would be greater when kids and family are aboard, more when brothers and sisters, Memorial Day type stuff. Would be underway some in those cases, etc. I have schooled myself on on amp hours used and think I have that down and is why I selected the 450 amp hours. Of course it is also based on space. I could move the engine batteries back to the aft position freeing space up and they are not run through the inverter but the charger is further away.

I think moving the start batteries is the way to go....sounds like a good choice....maybe a small box to hold the starts above the house bank....just spitballin here....... ...

bud37 wrote:Source of the post I think moving the start batteries is the way to go....sounds like a good choice....maybe a small box to hold the starts above the house bank....just spitballin here....... ...

I thought about putting the engine batteries above the house but that would complicate wiring around the engines a bit. I think I can make the well work. At any rate, the batteries will be the first thing to go in. So, I will know at that point.

I am going to stop by the marina close by and look at a few boats to see how others have done it. Might call Carver also, to see how their smaller new boats are set up.

Viper, how often would you estimate that you have seen these automatic relays go bad of the installs you have done? I would be willing to do the switch. It is a new wrinkle for me, and I will have to figure out how to remove the automatic relay from the inverter and look for room for a switch up in the cabin to prevent heading down to the engine room every time I get underway.

I've had two pass-thru functions fail which left the owners with no AC power. That was several years ago and I haven't had to respond to a similar instance since so designs may have changed. Check the manual of the unit you plan on buying, if you don't want to use the pass-thru feature, you simply don't hook up your shore power to the inverter but you must use a source selector switch. I wouldn't let the feature discourage you, you just need to be aware of the potential to fail and what the symptom would be and have a plan to regain AC power while the unit is out getting repaired or waiting for a replacement. I just like having more control, it usually results in a lower failure rates over automatic systems, and I get a better sense of safety when it's my finger on the switch.