Electrical

[bud37]

Good stuff...

[Anangelsfaith]

Does anyone know where I can find a diagram of the 1990 Carver santego Electrical system? Something is tripping the receptacle 1 switch on my panel and the main breaker on Dock. Shore power connection. I need to figure out whats going on asap.

Any help would be appreciated
Thanks

[km1125]

Source of the post Did a little poking around on these inexpensive step up transformers. Even though the unit says 2000 this is peak not continuous. Could not find the speck on the 2000 model but the 3000 is rated at 1500w continuous therefor must assume a little over 1,000w for the 2000. A 15A circuit is capable of 1800w. That being said and for the minimal price difference their 5000 unit is rated at 3000w continuous however being Chinese spec let's use 2000 to be safe.

Point is one should go for the 5000 unit as this will allow you to take full advantage of a 15a 110v receptacle. There are many vendors on eBay, aliexpress and Amazon however eBay was by far the cheapest. This link shows $98 US delivered to a US address. I did purchase one as being able to use on board power on the hard is a great asset. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165026315362?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D0f974f560663462aa912bb8cb80357f7%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D165026315362%26itm%3D165026315362%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A5693e8ae-578a-11ec-ae13-d2ba50c347b9%7Cparentrq%3A962006ac17d0a764ad8d3626fff81fde%7Ciid%3A1

Thanks once again for doing the testing on this hopefully it will work on mine also. All I need do do now is make up a decent sized adapter cord which is a piece of cake. Find out in spring if it works or I have a $100 paper weight. Regardless, can use it for other applications.

That's the same brand as the one that I used. I did consider that, but via amazon it's a bit more expensive. I wasn't sure f that was going to do the trick so I got the 2000W as a test, so I wanted a "no hassle" return policy. If you ever run across a docking situations where there's only 120V power (either 15A or 30A), then I'd definitely recommend the 5000W unit, as you could then use it for overnight stays, keeping pretty much everything but the HVAC running.

All the units have some pretty terrible reviews based on construction, so I really think their QC department is questionable. I would always take the unit apart once you get it and inspect for correct wiring and good solders. I might rig up a load test to run it near full load for a bit too, just to make sure it's fine. The one I bought was fine, but sounds like others were not so lucky.

If you have an isolation transformer, then there should be NO issue with this kind of a solution. I don't know if I'd leave it fully unattended for days, but would have no problem during the day or even overnight. They are not weather-protected, as they have vents for cooling. Mine did not even get slightly warm after a couple hours, but we were only drawing about 7A on the 120VAC side.

[ColRon]

Anangelsfaith, Welcome aboard. Which 90 model Santego do you have, the 2767, 3067, 3467 or the 3867? You might also want to consider starting a new thread for you question. Everyone on here will help you as much as possible.

[markalexander]

Source of the post

Source of the post Did a little poking around on these inexpensive step up transformers. Even though the unit says 2000 this is peak not continuous. Could not find the speck on the 2000 model but the 3000 is rated at 1500w continuous therefor must assume a little over 1,000w for the 2000. A 15A circuit is capable of 1800w. That being said and for the minimal price difference their 5000 unit is rated at 3000w continuous however being Chinese spec let's use 2000 to be safe.

Point is one should go for the 5000 unit as this will allow you to take full advantage of a 15a 110v receptacle. There are many vendors on eBay, aliexpress and Amazon however eBay was by far the cheapest. This link shows $98 US delivered to a US address. I did purchase one as being able to use on board power on the hard is a great asset. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165026315362?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D0f974f560663462aa912bb8cb80357f7%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D165026315362%26itm%3D165026315362%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A5693e8ae-578a-11ec-ae13-d2ba50c347b9%7Cparentrq%3A962006ac17d0a764ad8d3626fff81fde%7Ciid%3A1

Thanks once again for doing the testing on this hopefully it will work on mine also. All I need do do now is make up a decent sized adapter cord which is a piece of cake. Find out in spring if it works or I have a $100 paper weight. Regardless, can use it for other applications.

That's the same brand as the one that I used. I did consider that, but via amazon it's a bit more expensive. I wasn't sure f that was going to do the trick so I got the 2000W as a test, so I wanted a "no hassle" return policy. If you ever run across a docking situations where there's only 120V power (either 15A or 30A), then I'd definitely recommend the 5000W unit, as you could then use it for overnight stays, keeping pretty much everything but the HVAC running.

All the units have some pretty terrible reviews based on construction, so I really think their QC department is questionable. I would always take the unit apart once you get it and inspect for correct wiring and good solders. I might rig up a load test to run it near full load for a bit too, just to make sure it's fine. The one I bought was fine, but sounds like others were not so lucky.

If you have an isolation transformer, then there should be NO issue with this kind of a solution. I don't know if I'd leave it fully unattended for days, but would have no problem during the day or even overnight. They are not weather-protected, as they have vents for cooling. Mine did not even get slightly warm after a couple hours, but we were only drawing about 7A on the 120VAC side.

Hi km1125!
This is a great idea for solving the issue of a boat (like ours) that requires 250volt 50amp input to operate

I realize this is an older thread but it's got me thinking.

I could purchase the 5000 Watt unit as some have suggested.

Most Yacht Clubs and Marina's on Lake Ontario have at least 1x 30amp connection for each slip. What if I purchased a step up transform that had a 30 amp input, such as this one:
1-Phase Buck/Boost Step-Up Transformer - 120/240V Primary - 115/230V Secondary - 30.57 Amps - 50/60Hz
https://www.larsonelectronics.com/produ ... technology.

I could wire a 30amp shore power cable on the input/dock side of the Transformer and a female 50amp on the output side (looks like the neutral would just be a bypass of the unit) and this would give me 30amp (30.57amp) 250volts on the boat and I could run it continuously for a weekend or at least a few days. This would give me enough power to run at least 1 AC unit and some other systems on the boat.

Do you think this would be a better alternative to the Yinleader 5000W Step Up/Down Voltage Converter Transformer AC 110V/120V to 220V/240V or 220V/240V to 110V/120V Power Converter w/US Standard Power Cord,Circuit Breaker Protection https://a.co/d/03EaBRe

I realize the Yinleader 5000W Step Up/Down Voltage Converter Transformer is a far easier installation but it only gives about 12amp at 240volt as opposed to the other unit that gives 30amp at 240volt

What do you think about this option?

Thank you again for your help with this!
Mark

[km1125]

Source of the post

Source of the post

Source of the post Did a little poking around on these inexpensive step up transformers. Even though the unit says 2000 this is peak not continuous. Could not find the speck on the 2000 model but the 3000 is rated at 1500w continuous therefor must assume a little over 1,000w for the 2000. A 15A circuit is capable of 1800w. That being said and for the minimal price difference their 5000 unit is rated at 3000w continuous however being Chinese spec let's use 2000 to be safe.

Point is one should go for the 5000 unit as this will allow you to take full advantage of a 15a 110v receptacle. There are many vendors on eBay, aliexpress and Amazon however eBay was by far the cheapest. This link shows $98 US delivered to a US address. I did purchase one as being able to use on board power on the hard is a great asset. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165026315362?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D0f974f560663462aa912bb8cb80357f7%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D165026315362%26itm%3D165026315362%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A5693e8ae-578a-11ec-ae13-d2ba50c347b9%7Cparentrq%3A962006ac17d0a764ad8d3626fff81fde%7Ciid%3A1

Thanks once again for doing the testing on this hopefully it will work on mine also. All I need do do now is make up a decent sized adapter cord which is a piece of cake. Find out in spring if it works or I have a $100 paper weight. Regardless, can use it for other applications.

That's the same brand as the one that I used. I did consider that, but via amazon it's a bit more expensive. I wasn't sure f that was going to do the trick so I got the 2000W as a test, so I wanted a "no hassle" return policy. If you ever run across a docking situations where there's only 120V power (either 15A or 30A), then I'd definitely recommend the 5000W unit, as you could then use it for overnight stays, keeping pretty much everything but the HVAC running.

All the units have some pretty terrible reviews based on construction, so I really think their QC department is questionable. I would always take the unit apart once you get it and inspect for correct wiring and good solders. I might rig up a load test to run it near full load for a bit too, just to make sure it's fine. The one I bought was fine, but sounds like others were not so lucky.

If you have an isolation transformer, then there should be NO issue with this kind of a solution. I don't know if I'd leave it fully unattended for days, but would have no problem during the day or even overnight. They are not weather-protected, as they have vents for cooling. Mine did not even get slightly warm after a couple hours, but we were only drawing about 7A on the 120VAC side.

Hi km1125!
This is a great idea for solving the issue of a boat (like ours) that requires 250volt 50amp input to operate

I realize this is an older thread but it's got me thinking.

I could purchase the 5000 Watt unit as some have suggested.

Most Yacht Clubs and Marina's on Lake Ontario have at least 1x 30amp connection for each slip. What if I purchased a step up transform that had a 30 amp input, such as this one:
1-Phase Buck/Boost Step-Up Transformer - 120/240V Primary - 115/230V Secondary - 30.57 Amps - 50/60Hz
https://www.larsonelectronics.com/produ ... technology.

I could wire a 30amp shore power cable on the input/dock side of the Transformer and a female 50amp on the output side (looks like the neutral would just be a bypass of the unit) and this would give me 30amp (30.57amp) 250volts on the boat and I could run it continuously for a weekend or at least a few days. This would give me enough power to run at least 1 AC unit and some other systems on the boat.

Do you think this would be a better alternative to the Yinleader 5000W Step Up/Down Voltage Converter Transformer AC 110V/120V to 220V/240V or 220V/240V to 110V/120V Power Converter w/US Standard Power Cord,Circuit Breaker Protection https://a.co/d/03EaBRe

I realize the Yinleader 5000W Step Up/Down Voltage Converter Transformer is a far easier installation but it only gives about 12amp at 240volt as opposed to the other unit that gives 30amp at 240volt

What do you think about this option?

Thank you again for your help with this!
Mark

Yes, that would work but it is a much more expensive solution to what I was proposing earlier. It does have a lot more capabilities HOWEVER, their specs are wrong. You're not going to get 30.57A at 250VAC but only 15.2A at 250VAC. I suspect they errantly swapped the specs for 120 and 250VAC in that spec sheet. That might still be plenty to get at least one of your AC units running though, along with several other VAC loads.

[markalexander]

Source of the post AH-HA!! IT WORKS!! And it only needs a SINGLE 120VAC outlet!

Pretty simple actually. I got a 120VAC to 240VAC "converter" off Amazon and made a custom plug. Works great. Between this converter and the isolation transformer in the boat, they draw about 2.4A at 120VAC, so there's plenty left over to run the battery charger and misc other 120VAC things on the boat (like a fridge, or lights). The unit I bought was about $90 and should have handled up to 2000W, but I realized after cracking the case open that it is limited by a breaker inside to only 10A, or 1200W. Plenty though to run the charger. When we first hooked it up, it went to about 7A at 120VAC and his battery charger was putting out 35A at 14.8VDC. His batteries hadn't been charged since the beginning of Oct and he had used some stuff on the boat since then.

Here's the unit:

240VAC_Converter_device.jpg

Here's the custom plug I made. Just a 240VAC 50A connector to a 120VAC 15A connector.

240VAC_Converter_custom_plug.jpg

Here's the thing in use on the swim platform:

240VAC_Converter_in_use.jpg

When we plugged it in, I had a Kill-a-Watt plugged in so we could see how much it was drawing off the 120VAC outlet

240VAC_Converter_amp_draw.jpg

Could also be used at any place you stop in the summer if they don't have 50A 240V plugs within reach and would keep your fridge cold and batteries charged.

Hi km1125

I purchased the 5000 watt unit https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09LQXP8R2/ref=ewc_pr_img_4 (on sale today on Amazon.ca) and a female 50amp plug https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07VBY4GPC?psc=1&smid=A67FFQ1POP4BF

In your one photo you show a 50amp female plug with a regular 3 prong plug, which I assume you plug into the 240volt on the converter.

My question is did you just take each hot from the 3 prong plug and join to the black and red on the 50amp female and hook up the ground, all with no neutral? and it worked even with the isolation transformer? This is because the boat has it's own neutral/white on the panel?

Or, more simply, how did you wire the 'regular' 120volt male plug to the 50amp 125/250volt shore power plug?

Or did you just take the 3 wires from the 120volt plug (green, white and black lines) and hook up the black from plug to both black and red (X and Y on 50amp socket) like this:

plug - 50 amp socket
green - green
white - white
black - black X and red Y

or is it

plug - 50 amp socket
green - green
white - black X
black - red Y

and if so, does it work because the plug on the back of the Converter Transformer supplying 2 x 50amp and 1 x ground on the 220-240 volt socket on the back of the Converter Transformer box? So no neutral line?

Sorry for the confusion with this part of your idea!

Thanks for your help with this, I want to try this setup with my 5000watt unit and female 50amp shore power plug in the next few days

Thanks!
Mark

[km1125]

The plug that looks like a "regular 3 prong plug" is actually a 240V 20A plug. If you look at the prongs, they are actually perpendicular to how a "regular 3 prong plug" is. They are both "horizontal" whereas a 120VAC plug they are both "vertical".

However, the wiring is the same, it would be:
plug - 50 amp socket
green - green
white - black X
black - red Y

There is no neutral going INTO the boat's isolation transformer. On the OUTPUT side of the boat's isolation transformer there is a neutral that goes to your main electrical panel. Then you can have 120CVAC from either hot to that neutral, or 240VAC across the two hots (just like a normal house).

[markalexander]

Source of the post The plug that looks like a "regular 3 prong plug" is actually a 240V 20A plug. If you look at the prongs, they are actually perpendicular to how a "regular 3 prong plug" is. They are both "horizontal" whereas a 120VAC plug they are both "vertical".

However, the wiring is the same, it would be:
plug - 50 amp socket
green - green
white - black X
black - red Y

There is no neutral going INTO the boat's isolation transformer. On the OUTPUT side of the boat's isolation transformer there is a neutral that goes to your main electrical panel. Then you can have 120CVAC from either hot to that neutral, or 240VAC across the two hots (just like a normal house).

Hi km1125
That's excellent description and instructions. I missed that the plug was a 20amp
The neutral makes sense due to the Isolation Transformer
I'll put it all together in the next few days and test it out. I'll report back if it works
Thanks again for giving your time to answer my questions and everyone else's questions too!
Mark

[km1125]

Source of the post

Source of the post The plug that looks like a "regular 3 prong plug" is actually a 240V 20A plug. If you look at the prongs, they are actually perpendicular to how a "regular 3 prong plug" is. They are both "horizontal" whereas a 120VAC plug they are both "vertical".

However, the wiring is the same, it would be:
plug - 50 amp socket
green - green
white - black X
black - red Y

There is no neutral going INTO the boat's isolation transformer. On the OUTPUT side of the boat's isolation transformer there is a neutral that goes to your main electrical panel. Then you can have 120CVAC from either hot to that neutral, or 240VAC across the two hots (just like a normal house).

Hi km1125
That's excellent description and instructions. I missed that the plug was a 20amp
The neutral makes sense due to the Isolation Transformer
I'll put it all together in the next few days and test it out. I'll report back if it works
Thanks again for giving your time to answer my questions and everyone else's questions too!
Mark

Actually, I misspoke... it was a 15A 240V plug that I used. The twenty amp versions (both 125 and 250v) have prongs perpendicular to each other, but opposite in configuration so they can't be plugged into the wrong socket. For the 15A 250 both prongs are perpendicular to the prongs on a 15A 125V plug.

NEMA_plugs.jpg