360SS Dash Refit

[Jskhome62]

I’m also in the middle of doing a dash panel update. I’m trying to work with the existing panels though and just upgrading/refinishing what I can. I just redid my port side switch panel with switches from new wire marine. I am still looking for gauges of similar size/function for the guage panel. Or I might just mask and repaint if I can’t find something.

The one issue I’m having is I can figure out how to get the throttle controls off so I can get that panel off to refinish. Any idea how to remove that?

Some images attached that show the work in progress. The white panels (if not obvious - hope it is ) are the refinished.

[Alanna Mo Cree]

That's looking good! Those are the same switches I'm planning to get from New Wire.

The throttles are accessed from the center access panel below the wheel.

PXL_20221009_192750051.jpg

The cables will need to be removed and then the housing can be unscrewed. I don't remember if the screws are accessible from the access panel or if the housing cover needs to be removed (or both). I've looked at it a few times, but haven't tackled that one yet. viewtopic.php?t=6487 has good information about cable replacement.

[Alanna Mo Cree]

This project is going to officially be on hold until at least the fall. As is typical with boat projects, once we started getting into this year's yard work a lot of higher priority items came up. I will update this thread when we get back to this project.

Some lessons learned on the dash refit so far:

• Be ready to either provide the old panels or make panel mockups with cardboard or something.
  I tried to trace my existing panels, but the proofs I got back were clearly not correct. The top panel with the gauges was particularly off. New Wire has an option to laser cut cardboard mockups to ensure fit, but better to send them correct information to start with.
• Fall is a slower season for new panels which is counter to what I expected.
  I figured that people who were having to park their boats for the winter would be more likely to do the panel work while the boat was in storage. I guess more people are interested in doing panels to start the season.
• Carver used a lot of plastic connectors, at least on the 360, behind the panels.
  There are pros and cons to these connections vs. using terminal strips. I elected to go with terminal strips and started switching over as I removed some components. This allows for a bit more organization and should make new installations, as well as troubleshooting, easier.
• Seems obvious, but indicate what components are being removed, what components are being reused, and what components are being added at the same time as the new panel.
  I had to clarify a couple items that were not going to be included and a couple items I had planned for future installation. I didn't want to receive panels with the holes cut for the future items and then have to figure out some kind of blanking solution in the meantime. Not to mention if the actual components chosen in the future differed from the ones I was planning to use at design I would have ended up with holes that didn't fit.
• My current panel uses screws. The new panel is going to use studs. While this results in a nicer finish on the panel, the studs will not align with the existing screw holes.
  There will be considerable drilling and some interesting boat yoga to reach some of the studs, especially on the top panel, after install. I've been trying to think of a way to get better access to the back of the panel without doing something drastic like cutting an access port in the top of the dash.
• Try to operate the boat for awhile with components where you think you will want them before having the panels done.
  I took out everything I plan to remove and have been moving things around a bit to make sure I like the ergonomics before committing to the new panels. Thankfully the panels aren't nearly as expensive as I thought they would be, so redoing one if I really don't like something is a possibility. It would still be better to get it right the first time.
• To get full rated USB-C power requires 24v to the receptacles.
  I planned to make USB-C outlets available on port and starboard panels. Scanstrut makes a USB-A/USB-C power outlet that is rated 60W on USB-C. The fine print is that it is only 36W at 12v. Since my other project is putting in a 48v system with 12v buffer, I haven't decided yet on whether I want to make 24v available at the helm. Things can already get a little complicated with two different DC voltages, but at least they are well segregated. Having a 110v outlet on the flybridge would probably be more flexible and could still be used to power/charge USB-C devices.

[Alanna Mo Cree]

This project is underway! I ended up sending in my old panels at the end of October, so the dash has looked like this for about 6 weeks.

PXL_20251011_194324728.MP.jpg

The new panels came in last week. New Wire Marine should run a clinic on packaging. I have never received anything so well packaged in my entire life. Imagine each of these panels individually wrapped in about a 2 inch layer of bubble wrap.

PXL_20251219_213120482.MP.jpg

For the moment everything is going to be taking up a bunch of space in the salon until after the holidays. I hope to have the panel finished with all new gauges and electronics by the end of January.

[pepmyster]

Beautiful! You're giving me the itch.......

[km1125]

Can't wait to see the results!