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- Scurvy Dog
- Posts: 1
- Joined: July 7th, 2014, 8:27 pm
- Vessel Info: 1996 Carver Santego SE
- Posts: 954
- Joined: March 27th, 2016, 2:27 pm
- Vessel Info: The Midnight Sun
- Location: Montreal, Canada
- Has thanked: 82 times
- Been thanked: 321 times
2007 Carver 41 CMY
Twin Volvo D6-370's
Midnight Sun I Photos
- Scurvy Dog
- Posts: 16
- Joined: December 5th, 2016, 6:31 am
- Vessel Info: 1989 santego 38
- Location: Shelton, connecticut
- Has thanked: 16 times
- Been thanked: 1 time
My name Is guy, I have a 1989 Santego 3467. I am going through the same research for a dinghy Dalvit system and focused on the hurler h3o as I am 65 and didn't want to remove the yams 15 horse off my walker bay 310 Genesis dink. Sadly because the Santego platform is only 18 inches deep I couldn't use the h3o. I am aware of the h2o but after talking with Hurley they said I would need to worry about the dink being only 8-10 inches off the water and that the system would require extensions that would push the dink approximately 14 inches off the outside edge of the platform. Since the h2o is a pull on system, this was terribly unattractive to me. I am now looking at a system from dinghy caddy, which allows me a single point of contact to hoist the dink, allows for motor and all contents to stay on dink and is designed to work on a shallow platform that is like ours. Hope this helps. Feel free to call, guy, 202-231-2164
- Scurvy Dog
- Posts: 18
- Joined: December 14th, 2016, 9:57 pm
- Vessel Info: Carver 3807, 1987
- Location: Western Lake Erie
- Been thanked: 3 times
Search around for a used Trilogy lift, I found mine at a Sailorman in Lauderdale for $350. Easy to install. 10 seconds to launch or retrieve. Also try searchtempest for craigslist.
- CYO Supporter
- Posts: 2792
- Joined: July 10th, 2015, 9:58 pm
- Vessel Info: 1989 Carver 3807
- Location: Ontario, Canada
- Has thanked: 137 times
- Been thanked: 608 times
GUY brings up a good point in that the platform is not very deep so you want to ensure you are within required specs before you start drilling any holes. Hurley has a layout and requirement specs on their site. If I recall, they also have an extension assembly to accommodate short platforms.
No matter which davit system you go with, you can't go wrong with stainless steel fasteners. The size and length of the fasteners will depend on the unit you're installing as the holes provided in the mounting hardware will dictate fastener size. This should be in the instructions provided or simply measure the diameter of the mounting holes in the base plates.
Just as important, is the installation process. I assume it's a cored platform and if you never want to worry about it again or your core rotting from it taking on water a few years down the road, here is a good installation practice. Drill your holes and do a dry fit with your fasteners. When you’re satisfied with the fit, remove everything, then dig out the core inside around the holes a 1/4 inch or so all the way around. An allen key in a drill makes this easier. You may have to start off with a very short end and progressively work your way longer depending on the core material but the “L” shape makes this easier to get around the bend in the hole. Balsa will be a cinch as it’s a soft wood while ply will be a little more difficult. After you’re done digging, tape the bottom of the hole, then fill the entire cavity with thickened epoxy. After it cures, re-drill the holes starting off with a much smaller drill bit to act as a pilot hole and ensure it comes out through the middle of the hole on the opposite side.
The above serves two purposes; even if your seal (caulking) around the fasteners fails, no water will come in contact with the core since you have effectively drilled through an epoxy plug and the hole isn't surrounded by the wooden core material. Secondly, the plug serves to prevent collapsing the top or bottom glass layers and crushing the core when you tighten the fasteners. This is the way all hardware that experiences high loads/stress should be fastened to cored substrates. Your swim platform will undergo high stress levels with a dinghy on it especially in rough seas so don’t skimp here. Any movement in the fasteners or substrate will cause caulking to fail and an unprotected core will saturate pretty quickly ($$$).
My motto is that hardware gets thru-bolted where possible. Even in an enclosed/hollow swim platform, access holes can be cut underneath the fastener areas, and as long as the core is properly addressed with epoxy and the hole covered with a sealed access plate, this is the way to go. Guys have used marine grade anchors for fastening in hollow areas that can’t be accessed through the other side without cutting holes, and while these work for some applications, you want to be careful using them for fastening assemblies susceptible to high stress levels.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.
- Scurvy Dog
- Posts: 2
- Joined: December 14th, 2018, 6:05 am
- Vessel Info: 1988 Carver Santego
- Location: Lake Simcoe
I recently purchased a 1988 Santego 380 with a Hurley h2 davit system, yes the through hull exhaust does go through the swim platform, it appears to be very accessible, being able to remove the bottom of the swim platform
My only issue with the H2 davit system is the lifting the tender out of the water on to the davit. The bars don't go in the water deep enough to allow the tender to go on top of the bars, thus having to lift the tender on top of the bars first, then pulling it up to it's resting position. The video of the H2 system shows it being able to be done with one hand but I have yet been able to do that (time for me to build muscle I guess)
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