Carver Owners Forum

I have always done my fresh water system winterization and A/C system myself. For the A/C, I will shut the petcock for the raw water inlet, (as I do it while in the water), then open the strainer. I take a hose from the dock supply, and fill the strainer and run the A/C's, a few minutes to flush them free of salt water. Then, once done, I will pour pink antifreeze into the strainer (usually 5 or 6 gallons to ensure I get all the water diluted to pink) and run the system on both heat and cool, while letting the pink stuff flow through. Then shut off, and replace the strainer cover. When on the had, I will open the seacock to let any raw water drain out..

I am thinking of doing my Koehler Genset this year. Wouldn't all be the same where it has a heat exchanger? I would shut the raw water seacock and open the strainer, then run unit with a fresh water supply hose in the strainer. After a few moments, shut the hose, and begin to pour 2 or 3 gallons of pink stuff into the strainer, letting the genset suck it through and out the exhaust port on the side of the boat. I would hate to make a mistake and have it freeze during the winter. Am I missing anything? I know I am using a lot of pink stuff, but it is cheap compared to the not enough consequence.

Comments please?

That is exactly what I do.

I agree, running extra pink through is cheap compared to component replacement. Just make sure your gen exhaust is really pink before shutting it down. I also fill my water separator with sea foam at the same time as the oil change so that it’s gets a really good dose during the ‘pink sucking’

If you get hauled out, why don't you do the whole process out of the water? The problem with doing it in the water is that if your seacock leaks, it will dilute the antifreeze solution in your strainer and you'll have to empty it again once on land, but you may not even realize there's a problem. It's easier to just wait until you're out so you don't have to worry about it. BTW, you don't have to run the AC on both cycles, just one o the other will do. I don't even turn the units on because I use a pressurized system (pump) to force the antifreeze through the strainer, pump, and AC units. Run antifreeze through until you get it out of all your discharges; 2 or 3 of them depending on your application unless they all drain into one manifold before going overboard. If you get really creative, you can rig a pressurized system up by using the fresh water pump you already have on board!

That's the way I've always done it. Never had any problems

As viper stated, I do all my winterizing on the hard. Have always done my plumbing, genny and reverse heat/air since I have been boating. May try the engines this year after research.

I have had success doing my heat/air a different way than going through the strainer. First I remove water from the strainer with a shop vacuum and close the strainer and sea cox to seal the system. Then using compressed air, I blow the system out through the thru hull fitting on the port bow of my boat. The air blows all of the water out of the system through the other one or two thru hull fittings you may have. Have a spotter tell you when there is no more water.

I then remove any water from the strainer again and open and close the sea cox. The final step is to push non-tox through the system through then same thru hull fitting with a 1/6th HP submersible pump in a bucket of non-tox. I have a spotter watch the other thru hull fittings till a constant stream of pink comes out. Done.

I use a hose from the pump and hold a fitting against the thru hull fitting for both the air and the non-tox. I find a barbed fitting of the right size with electrical tape and minimal pressure creates a good seal.

I do not do this in the water, as Viper stated, my sea cox leaks a bit and would be a problem in the spring. I can't use the strainer and the circulation pump because I can't plug my boat in to get the power I need to run the heat/air, I need 240. This system works perfect for me and is easy to get to. I also seem to use less non-tox this way. Remember to open your sea cox when you're done.

Happy winterizing, if there is such a thing.

Greg

Sadly, I have to do what I need to do in the water as no power at the storage yard, and they don’t disallow owners doing work, bu they do give you the evil eye when you do. I have had the strainer cover off and have never gotten any water back up through the sea clock, so I think mine is pretty tight.

tonyiiiafl wrote:Source of the post Sadly, I have to do what I need to do in the water as no power at the storage yard, and they don’t disallow owners doing work, bu they do give you the evil eye when you do. I have had the strainer cover off and have never gotten any water back up through the sea clock, so I think mine is pretty tight.

If you wanted to make sure there was no leak....just do the regular thing with the thru hull closed and when you are done ...remove the hose from the thru hull to the strainer at the strainer end and put wooden dowel and hose clamp......can't leak now and when gets to the hard just open the thru hull and remove the dowel.....done

I do my Ac in the water....but this year will be done in the parking lot due to rushed haul out.

Yes, that works too! When done in previous years, I have left the cover off of the strainer for the day and noted any rise in water. Never been any.

Tonyiiiafl, One thing that I do on the Genset which you did not mention is to drain the excess fuel out of the carburetor.
There is fuel drain screw at the bottom of the carb which can be loosened to drain. I found this out from a guy who services these units.

Sorry you guys up north are already thinking about winterization. In tennesee We're setting high temps everyday so far in September warmest ever