Carver Owners Forum

My 92 280 sedan has throttle levers on the bridge and inside, these are different types. The ones up top need adjusting: one drops by itself and the other one is a bit too rough to move smoothly. Didn't really find an adjustment screw or something like that at the back

Where do I adjust these cables, in the lever housing? or at the engine or both?

The ones at the inside stand are too tight: not smooth to adjust. Haven't taken their covers off yet though, there may be an adjusting screw there or some parts to lubricate a bit.

What is the usual way to approach this?

There are a variety of types available. If you could include some pics or some info off the units that might help folks provide valid feedback.

yes, I was lazy not to look for the picture I posted earlier:

This is on the bridge: the one on the left of the right ones (! ) is sagging:



I might turn them over as they are somewhat in the way. Like so:

Sounds like the cables need to be replaced, especially the throttle cables that are dropping by themselves. The shifting cables may be experiencing a kink somewhere in the run, or may also need replacing. er

You have the Teleflex CH4400 series controls. It's beneficial to determine if they are connected in series or parallel. Parallel is cables going from each control directly to the engine and tranny. Series is a set of cables going from the upper station control to the lower station control, then a separate set of cables going from the lower station controls to the engine and tranny. There are reasons for preferring one setup over the other.

When I approach this, I start from scratch rather than trying to make adjustments all over the place randomly. This requires disconnecting the cables at all ends; engine and controls as if you were installing new cables. This also allows you to check the operation of the controls to see if they travel freely with no grinding, and to check that the cables travel freely by hand. You'll get some resistance when trying to move the cables but they should move reasonably well. If they don't, replace them now while they're disconnected. If that's the case, check their routing when you pull them out, you want nice wide turns when installing so they are free of tight bends.

For hooking up, start at the engine side of each cable and place the adjustment barrels in the same spot for all of them. These are usually fine threads so it's a good practice to bottom them out and then count the number of turns back out so that all end up in the exact same spot. The type of adjustment may vary but the goal is to have the same number of threads or measurement at each attachment point at this end. Then move on to the ends at the lower station controls and test. Once you've set up and adjusted the lower station properly, you don't touch that adjustment for the rest of the process. Then attach the upper station cables to the lower station controls (series installation). Again, start off on these cables with the same number of adjusted threads on both sides. Then attach the cables at the upper station and test. Throttle is set up initially full back idle, and shifting is set up initially in neutral. Check to ensure the tranny shift lever gets full engagement/travel into forward and reverse, and that you get full travel at the carburetor when you are wide open throttle at the control.

I have attached a file with the proper installation instructions. Pay special attention to the part that tells you not to place any resistance on the lower station control. The reason for that is you'll introduce too much resistance between the two stations which will require more effort to move the controls while boating. The manual will also show you a parts breakdown indicating where the adjustment screws and detents are....
http://www.seastarsolutions.com/support-2/installation-manuals-controls-cables/controls-installation-manuals-mechanical-dual-action/

Thank you very much for this elaborate information! This helps me a lot!

I should mention that when I start with the hook ups at the engine, I place the adjustment barrel or nut at the half way mark on the threads. This will give you room to adjust at the control one way or the other. Do the same when you go to connect the upper cables to the lower controls so that you have room for adjustment at the upper station. Inevitably, between all the hardware; attachment points, cable, controls, etc., you'll have some slack which results in dead movement areas at the controls. To help minimize that, when you do your final connection of a cable at a control (not the upper cable to the lower station), tighten the adjustment nut/barrel an extra turn to remove the slack and test. You may not get rid of all the slack but this will help. Don't go crazy here trying to remove all the slack as you'll end up going into gear or throttling up.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

I found the manual/exploded view. job moved to tomorrow as I attacked another job I was not looking forward to:



after a lot of hacking and attacking I got it all out. And a bucket full of rust particles.

After cleaning and painting I'll put a plastic grill on the bottom so that the chain will not bathe in water for too long. The drain hole is a bit higher than the bottom of the compartment.

The good news was that the windlass motor worked when powered directly so only the relays were stuck/broken. No problem, these days it's one relay block instead of two pots with various wires. And a remote control included so I will water-proof seal off the footswitches.

Phrancus wrote:Source of the post I found the manual/exploded view. job moved to tomorrow as I attacked another job I was not looking forward to:



after a lot of hacking and attacking I got it all out. And a bucket full of rust particles.

After cleaning and painting I'll put a plastic grill on the bottom so that the chain will not bathe in water for too long. The drain hole is a bit higher than the bottom of the compartment.

The good news was that the windlass motor worked when powered directly so only the relays were stuck/broken. No problem, these days it's one relay block instead of two pots with various wires. And a remote control included so I will water-proof seal off the footswitches.

Looks like it came from a sunken Spanish treasure ship......

Wow, that could be a real money maker. Take it out and down to the nearest art gallery auction. Some folks will pay a handsome price for that kind of ark work. Can you picture that on some rich coffee table or an elaborate centerpiece in a grand hall? The lines really make sense and take your imagination to new levels. Imagine the stories it could tell