Carver Owners Forum

t in float switch. I bought a bilge pump with a built in switch. I find it woks 97% of the time. There are times it doesnt shut off unless I tap it or jump on the floor. Has anyone added more weight to the float switch? Like drilling a small hole in it, adding some bb's or splt fishing sinkers, then plugging the hole with 4200?

You should not have to do that. There's probably something hanging up in the hinging mechanism, perhaps some plastic flashing or something like that.

I think those mechanical float switches are a royal PITA so I installed electronic switches with no moving parts.

Others have mentioned that they had trouble with those but time will tell.

Me…I don’t care for the electronic pumps or pumps with built in switches. Give me old style with separate switch. Never had a problem with them.

I think for my peace of mind replacing with bilge pump with separate float switch is pretty cheap insurance

I agree.
Seems there has been a fair few complaints I have come across about the newer style internal float bilge pumps, especially at the cheaper end of the scale. The thing is, separate float switches can be tested easily ( I like the old methods when it comes to this) unless there is a way to test the internal float types without filling the bilge with water. Perhaps there is but I would not want to find out by getting a call from the marina that the boat seems low in the water......

Not sure what the solution is here, without buying some of the expensive well made pumps, that said none of them will keep a holed boat from sinking for long.

What brand and model pump did you get? Some with built-in switches are not good designs IMO. I'll call out a particular brand and design; Attwood makes one that has a knob protruding through the housing that you can turn to activate the float manually. The problem is that the housing opening for this knob is so close to the knob that it causes it to bind at times. If you don't screw down the base evenly or tighten it too much, you'll actually distort the housing and cause the knob to bind every time. Any similar design will have the same result. This is a well known brand so nothing would surprise me on an off brand.

Electronic level switches are great in principal but they have their issues too. There are some things that are just fine without electronics. Keep it simple and it'll likely last for decades.

This was one from Amazon, shower sump kit for $28.00. Pump is quiet, pumps like the devil, and has a check valve, and ignition protected. yes, it has the knob, but seems to operate smoothly. I am going to check how level I have the sump box and see if that helps on Saturday.

Tony, check to see if there is a little screw on the end of the knob. If there is, back it off a bit and check to see if that frees up its operation.

Well,, I leveled the box, same thing. erratic on and off when it wanted. I loosened the screw on the knob and also not working reliably. SO, I got a RULE float switch, fastened it down with some silicone and a screw (silicone too) and now works great. SO, the entire job cost me $64.00, I have a pump that is super, and a float switch that works. Still a lot cheaper than the Rule or Johnson shower sumps. The saga of the internal float switch is closed!