Carver Owners Forum

I have an issue with my port prop shaft . I pulled my prop to see a pretty deep wear groove happening. My ask is can someone with their 444 still out on blocks measure the distance between the back of the prop collar to the strut. I am attaching a generic picture to show where I would like the measurement. Thank you in advance

Can't answer your question, but I have a few questions.

Where are you seeing the grooving?

Also, I am curious about those anodes. Do you boat in a pretty corrosive environment? Why two on the shaft? Is the strut bonded and do you have a hull anode? I've never seen anodes put on a strut like that and would think it would kill efficiency both by the direct drag as well as all the turbulence ahead of the prop.

Once we removed the prop the groove lined up with the backside of the prop. The picture I added was just a generic pic not my boat...can't answer his anode decisions . My prop was off already so I just was looking for the measurement noted
Thanks

You don't need much of a gap there. Half an inch or an inch is about all I'm used to seeing the most. A spinning shaft with a prop on the end has the best support that way IMO. Really all you need is enough room to get a prop puller in there unless it's the type of prop that requires the puller to be bolted on the aft end of the prop.

Thanks for the input all good points. I have a 4 inch gap between the strut and the prop. We are going to reduce that closer to 2 inches

The only reasons I could think of why they're that long is they were replaced and they got the measurements wrong or used what was available in a pinch to get underway again, or perhaps there were line cutters installed at one time though I don't think for your size shafts the cutter assemblies would have been so thick that they're required that much of a gap. Another possibility would be that the geometry inside the boat changed for some reason; a repower, stringer job, engines were moved for some reason, etc.

A good prop shop should have no problem resizing those or are you replacing the existing ones for another reason? If you're resizing the existing ones, have them checked to ensure they're straight first. If they aren't, cut new ones instead of straightening and cutting the old ones. Straightening can sometimes result in them bouncing back to their bent position over time. While they're off, send your props in to get checked too, that shouldn't cost you anything unless they report needing some tuning. While you're under there, check to ensure your struts are straight and not bent. If they're bent, take them to the prop shop too. Check to ensure the strut bearings are in good shape, if they aren't, now's the time to replace them.

Before you pull the shafts out, check their alignment through the struts and stern tubes through the hull to ensure the shafts are centered through each of them. This will give you an idea if you're in for additional work after you get the shafts back. If they aren't centered, you'll need to do engine alignments and or strut alignments. That final work though should only be done with what you know are straight shafts, and final engine alignments should be done after she's back in the water for a day or so but you can check and get things close while she's on land. In the end, you have a max of .003" to work with all around between the tranny flange and shaft coupler.

If you don't currently have them but were thinking about dripless shaft logs, now's the time to pull the trigger if they're in the budget.

Can you tell I'm trying to get you to BOAT (Break Out Another (Ten) Thousand)

Lol, thanks Viper. All excellent suggestions. I'm dealing with a very reputable property shop and you have given me some good questions to ask.
Thanks again