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Shower Sump Not Working
- tonyp444
- Scurvy Dog
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Shower Sump Not Working
What’s the best way to troubleshoot the switch and pump? I’m assuming drain the water out of the box and then activate the float switch with the breaker on and a multimeter on the wires going to the pump to see if the switch is supplying 12v? If yes, then pump is bad, if no, then switch is bad. If the switch is bad, then direct wire the pump to make sure the switch and pump haven’t both gone bad? Do I have that all right?
Does anyone know how to activate these “automatic” Rule switches that are a fully enclosed unit? The standard manual float switches are obvious but I can’t tell by looking at this one. Is there some sort of float inside that I can lift up by sticking something in there through the openings in the side? I googled it and watched a couple product videos from Rule but no luck.
- km1125
- Admiral
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Re: Shower Sump Not Working
- tonyp444
- Scurvy Dog
- Posts: 49
- Joined: October 7th, 2023, 9:21 pm
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Re: Shower Sump Not Working
- tonyp444
- Scurvy Dog
- Posts: 49
- Joined: October 7th, 2023, 9:21 pm
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Re: Shower Sump Not Working
The new version of the Rule float switch is a perfect drop in replacement. No issues there.
To answer one of my questions from earlier, there is a mechanical float switch inside the “rule-a-matic”. You could probably lift it by sticking something through the slots in the side, otherwise if you unscrew it from the base you can easily activate the switch when you have access to the bottom.
The new version of the 800gph Rule bilge pump, however, looks very similar but isn’t the same. Replacing that was more complicated. The new version has a much longer barbed output fitting which doesn’t fit inside the sump box without cutting it. I had to take about a half inch off in order for it to fit, which I did with a PEX cutter.
I don’t have a good picture of the new bilge pump, but here’s the old one:
The other issue is the new bilge pump is about 1/2” to 3/4” taller than the old one, so I can’t put the lid back on the box.
I think I’m going to use some plastic spacers and longer screws, and then use gorilla tape or something similar to cover the gap. The other option I’m considering is to use a hole saw to cut a hole so that the top of the bilge pump passes through the lid. I’m not thrilled with either of those solutions so I’m open to suggestions if anyone has ideas.
Old pump and switch:
New:
At least it works now so I can run the A/C without the condensation draining into the bilge. Just need to figure out the issue with securing the lid given the taller pump.
- Cooler
- Admiral
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- Vessel Info: 1995 Carver 330 Mariner
Twin 350XL Crusaders
Home port: Menominee, MI - Location: Green Bay, WI
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Re: Shower Sump Not Working

( All weather people have to say this on air, near lakes )
- tonyp444
- Scurvy Dog
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Re: Shower Sump Not Working
Cooler wrote:Source of the post I have not had the lid on mine for years. Not aware of why it is even there.er
Thanks, that makes me feel better about just leaving it off. I was assuming the lid was there to keep dust out, but having it be open to the air and allowing it to dry out might actually be beneficial.
- km1125
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Re: Shower Sump Not Working
- Midnightsun
- CYO Supporter
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2007 41CMY
Volvo D6-370's - Location: Montreal, Canada
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Re: Shower Sump Not Working
- bud37
- Admiral
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Re: Shower Sump Not Working
There will always be some residual in that box, no bilge pump pumps to dry.
- tonyp444
- Scurvy Dog
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Re: Shower Sump Not Working
Midnightsun wrote:Source of the post Here is what I did, working as advertised since the modification. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7724&p=60664&hilit=shower+sump#p60664
This is great, thank you. I’ve had bad luck with Rule products too so next time I’ll definitely go this route.
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