Need advice for seal replacement

[Punch'Eau]

Hi all, my 350 is a 2000. What seal should I buy/change to stop a water infiltration there?
Thanks in advance

[sbb2112]

Is the leak at the flange or is it at the shaft? If at the shaft you could try tightening the packing nut or replacing the packing material. I replaced the packing as I had a leak at the shaft. If at the flange, some 3M 5200 will fix that. My packing was 1/4".

[km1125]

A pic of the INSIDE on the rudder shaft might yield better answers, because it will show what type of seal is there. If it is just a packing gland then just tightening it a bit might be all it needs (as suggested above).

[Punch'Eau]

Source of the post Is the leak at the flange or is it at the shaft? If at the shaft you could try tightening the packing nut or replacing the packing material. I replaced the packing as I had a leak at the shaft. If at the flange, some 3M 5200 will fix that. My packing was 1/4".

I don't really remember exactly where it came from. I did'nt know it could be 2 different things. The boat is out of the water for the winter. I would like to work on it this autumn or next spring and do something to be sure any water will come in anymore. Do we change the packing from the inside only?

[Punch'Eau]

Source of the post A pic of the INSIDE on the rudder shaft might yield better answers, because it will show what type of seal is there. If it is just a packing gland then just tightening it a bit might be all it needs (as suggested above).

I am going at the boat next weekend. I will try to take a pic.
Thanks

[Viper]

Unless there was an impact, I suspect it's leaking at the shaft, but while you're in there, check and ensure all four assembly nuts on the backing plate are tight, and look for traces/tracks where water might have been running from one or more of the through bolts. There were some models on which Carver used dripless rudder assemblies but judging from the picture it looks like you have the traditional packing type, and it either needs to be tightened or the packing replaced. This is done inside the boat. If there aren't many threads left before the packing nut bottoms out, then replace the packing. If you were in the water, you could get away with just adding one row of packing without removing the old stuff but given that you're out of the water, it's best to remove the old packing and replace it all.

BTW, a couple of things I noticed in the pic; I don't know what type of water you're in but it looks like you may have magnesium anodes. For inboard running gear, aluminum anodes can be used for all types of water, are much cheaper, and last longer. I also see that two different people installed your props at one time, some guys install the small prop nut first while others install the large one first. The proper way is to tighten the prop on with the large nut, remove the nut, install the small nut, then install the large nut on last.

Keep us posted.

[KyleR]

The proper way is to tighten the prop on with the large nut, remove the nut, install the small nut, then install the large nut on last.

[Punch'Eau]

Source of the post Unless there was an impact, I suspect it's leaking at the shaft, but while you're in there, check and ensure all four assembly nuts on the backing plate are tight, and look for traces/tracks where water might have been running from one or more of the through bolts. There were some models on which Carver used dripless rudder assemblies but judging from the picture it looks like you have the traditional packing type, and it either needs to be tightened or the packing replaced. This is done inside the boat. If there aren't many threads left before the packing nut bottoms out, then replace the packing. If you were in the water, you could get away with just adding one row of packing without removing the old stuff but given that you're out of the water, it's best to remove the old packing and replace it all.

BTW, a couple of things I noticed in the pic; I don't know what type of water you're in but it looks like you may have magnesium anodes. For inboard running gear, aluminum anodes can be used for all types of water, are much cheaper, and last longer. I also see that two different people installed your props at one time, some guys install the small prop nut first while others install the large one first. The proper way is to tighten the prop on with the large nut, remove the nut, install the small nut, then install the large nut on last.

Keep us posted.

Thank you for useful informations. I always keep learning about boats. My boat is winterized far from me. If I want to change the packings and be sure I have everything I need the first time, I imagine I can buy different sizes of stuff before?

[sbb2112]

https://www.westmarine.com/western-paci ... 36103.html
and
https://www.westmarine.com/western-paci ... 55358.html

I used these. I used 1 package per rudder. You might get away with one package but it was cheap. The lube was enough for both rudders. The packing was easy to do, reaching the rudder shafts, not so much. A mariner maybe easier than my aft cabin.

[Punch'Eau]

Source of the post https://www.westmarine.com/western-paci ... 36103.html
and
https://www.westmarine.com/western-paci ... 55358.html

I used these. I used 1 package per rudder. You might get away with one package but it was cheap. The lube was enough for both rudders. The packing was easy to do, reaching the rudder shafts, not so much. A mariner maybe easier than my aft cabin.

Thank you very much. They are all 1/4 package on these boats? That's what my 350 should have too?
Thanks again