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Checking Vdrive fluid?
Posted: December 22nd, 2014, 10:10 am
by Boathooked
So I believe I am rather low on the port engine Vdrive. It says to check the transmission fluid at operating temperature. The problem is I am concerned I am really low and want to add oil now and then check.
Anyone have any idea how much transmission fluid one should have in a cold Vdrive on a 1998 Carver 355?
Thanks.
Re: Checking Vdrive fluid?
Posted: December 22nd, 2014, 9:40 pm
by g36
do these have a dipstick? i have straight drives mine do dont know about vdrives. if they dont could you not use something as a temporary dipstick and then compare between the other transmission and the one you suspect is low and then top off? at least get close? or tell how low you really might be.
Re: Checking Vdrive fluid?
Posted: December 23rd, 2014, 8:04 am
by Ramsport47
A 355 would have straight drives in it, so no v-drive...there would be a dipstick regardless of the type of gearbox it has. It will be a "T" handle near the top of the trans...toward the inboard side on the port and toward the outboard side on the stbd. If you fill it cold, do not overfill as the fluid expands when warm. I wouldn't go any higher than the midway mark on the dipstick.
Re: Checking Vdrive fluid?
Posted: May 26th, 2015, 9:10 am
by After Taxes
Advice from my mechanic: warm up transmission, let engine run, and check fluid levels only when hot. The Hurst ZF drive takes ATF. Do all drives use ATF?
Re: Checking Vdrive fluid?
Posted: June 29th, 2015, 11:05 pm
by After Taxes
How did you make out with the transmission fluid levels? My ZF Hurth V-drive model 25 holds about 4 litres. How do I know? I completely emptied the trans last week, and refilled with Dexron III automatic trans fluid, per manual.
Re: Checking Vdrive fluid?
Posted: July 1st, 2015, 12:18 pm
by After Taxes
You may find this helpful, if you have a ZF Hurth transmission. Mine is a model 25.
The bottom shot shows where the filter is located. Use a 6mm hex wrench to loosen the filter cap. After removing the cap, you'll find an O ring, which you pull out gently. The filter itself lifts straight out with finger pressure. Don't use any sharp tools.
The filter is a mesh metal screen, which is actually in two pieces. You can pull the filter pieces apart gently, and you'll find another O ring attached to one piece. The O ring stays in place when you pull the pieces apart, so don't worry about losing the O ring.
The parts can be washed out with varsol or any good mechanical cleaning fluid. Yes, it can be replaced, but as my mechanic said, why throw it away if it can be rinsed. After rinsing in cleaning fluid, we saw very minute traces of metal, appearing almost as sand, in the fluid. This is normal wear and tear metal from transmission use, and not a concern. You have to be sure not to damage two O rings in the filter assembly. If they are in good condition, they can be reused. There's no reason for them to have been damaged, unless the transmission has been overheated.
The middle shot shows the empty space where the filter sits. Use this opening to insert your vacuum pump and draw out the transmission fluid. There is a centre tube that your vacuum tube can be inserted, right to the bottom on the transmission. You can also add the new transmission fluid into this opening.
The top shot shows the filter. After rinsing, I blew it dry and then let it air dry, before re-installing.
Why did I tackle this job? I bought a used boat and wanted to ensure the transmission fluid was clean and fresh. Removing the old fluid also gives an indication of any problems. It was just slightly darker than new fluid, and had no burnt smell, and no traces of bad decay or metal filings. All good, but brand new Dexron III automatic transmission fluid is relatively cheap, compared to transmission costs. And it just feels good knowing what I have in there. The only oddity I found, was my manual indicates the trans holds 2 litres of fluid, but clearly I removed 4 litres in each trans, therefore I replaced it with 4.
Happy boating,
Steve