Carver Owners Forum

Hello Everyone,

I've been lurking and reading here for a while, but unfortunately now have a problem I need some help with

I have a 85 3207 aft cabin that I got from my folks when they went bigger, but I think I need to pull trans and either have some clutch work or a rebuild.

Went out the other week, had a great time until it was time to dock.. the starboard engine was stuck in forward, and for the life of me I couldn't get it to shift or come out of gear. I've eliminated all cable issues as both upper and lower stations shifters move together and the linkage on the trans moves as it should too. From everything I've read this points to a tans failure, and more specifically an issue with the clutch assembly (or whatever you want to call it).

I got down in the bilge and climbed around and from what I'm seeing it looks like the trans is mounted on the rear engine mounts, is this the case? If it is, can the trans be removed without lifting the engine all the way out, or at lease lifting the back end?

Have you checked the trans fluid level?

g36 wrote:Source of the post Have you checked the trans fluid level?

Yes.. it's full and clean. I was reading that these Borg Warner drives have a "get home"/ limp mode type feature. If they start to fail or wear out they will lock in forward to allow you to return to port. Which is the primary symptom I've found for a clutch failure

Sorry about the trans, seems odd to fail and the fluid is clean......anyway if you decide to do this yourself, be aware that is fairly heavy at over 100# wet,protect the boat and yourself against dropping it in the bilge.I am sure someone will be along that has some experience with your boat model soon.....good luck with it.

I have a 1981 3007 Aft Cabin. My port side transmission (Velvet Drive) did pretty much just what yours did. I was stuck in forward. I could shift to neutral but the transmission was still stuck in forward. If I shifted it into reverse it killed the engine. In my case it was fused clutches. I was actually lucky that it was stuck in forward so I could run on both engines on my trip home after it happened.

To fix it they did have to pull the engine and transmission together. The mechanic said it was much easier to do the fix by pulling both engine and transmission. So far this season the transmission is working flawlessly.

If there is room, the tranny alone can be removed. You'll need to have a few inches of shaft between the shaft log and the coupler so you can push the coupler and shaft back. Before uncoupling the tranny from the engine, support the bottom of the engine at the bell housing with blocks. Spread out the weight on the hull as much as you can. I just use a couple of long pieces of 2x6 as a base on the hull then build up with blocks from there until you're tight against the bell housing. Unbolt the tranny, lines, wiring, etc. then pull back. Not an easy task in cramped quarters with everything in the way. The more you can remove, like exhaust the better. That's why a lot of guys prefer removing the engine if access to the tranny is bad. If it's tight, leverage will be a problem.

Viper wrote:Source of the post If there is room, the tranny alone can be removed. You'll need to have a few inches of shaft between the shaft log and the coupler so you can push the coupler and shaft back. Before uncoupling the tranny from the engine, support the bottom of the engine at the bell housing with blocks. Spread out the weight on the hull as much as you can. I just use a couple of long pieces of 2x6 as a base on the hull then build up with blocks from there until you're tight against the bell housing. Unbolt the tranny, lines, wiring, etc. then pull back. Not an easy task in cramped quarters with everything in the way. The more you can remove, like exhaust the better. That's why a lot of guys prefer removing the engine if access to the tranny is bad. If it's tight, leverage will be a problem.

Which is exactly why the mechanic who rebuilt my transmission said he was pulling the engine and transmission together. Much easier to work on that way.

Not to mention the alignment issue your going to have putting the tranny back in. It can even be a pain when both units are out.

mjk1040 wrote:Source of the post Not to mention the alignment issue your going to have putting the tranny back in.....

That's something you have to do with the engine in place so either way, it's a pain. Removing the engine is always a last resort for me but if there's no room to pull the tranny the engine there, then there's not much of a choice. I've just found that those occasions have been rare in my experience.

I think I could get in there and get it out... but from everything i've read that's not looking promising. and i'm not so sure there would be enough room to get it uncoupled to lift out

I drew up a lift out of 2x6's that I'm going to assemble in the salon that will go over the engine opening, from there i will be able to lift it up enough to get the trans off and set it back down on blocks in the bilge. A local shop said they can get it rebuilt and back within a week. So with any luck it'll get pulled out this weekend and reinstalled next weekend... Wish me luck!