Carver Owners Forum

I winterized my closed loop system buy pulling the exit line out of the V drive system, shoving a funnel into it, and feeding antifreeze through it until it came out of the heat exchanger. I also pulled the exh manifold plugs, and blew out the V drives. (just hooked a shop vac up to the exit port, until nothing came out of the water inlet that is fed from the Perko strainer) I shoved an 1 1/4" hose into the perko strainer, with my hand cupped over the end, and forced most of the water out, and filled those with antifreeze as well.

My question is:

1) do I need to do anything else with the Walter V-drives to make sure that they're good for the winter?

and

2) given that Walter recommends pulling the top cap and inspecting seasonally, would it make more sense to do it now, and dump some antifreeze in the coolant passage, and leave it loose for the offseason?

It is my understanding that Walter recommends a new gasket at the top of the V-drive, but would a premium RTV work as well? Doesn't seem like it gets much pressure.

IMO the best way is to run antifreeze through the Walter. There's not much in the exchanger. It's a shallow cavity with an oil line running through it and the amount of antifreeze you'll use for piece of mind is worth the expense.

Personally I prefer using proper gaskets when possible. If you're going to use a caulk, make sure none oozes out on the inside. It won't present a problem for the Walter but it will end up in your oil cooler on the engine if that's the way your application's cooling circuit is run; from hull to the Walter then on to the engine. Not all are routed that way.

Viper wrote:Source of the post IMO the best way is to run antifreeze through the Walter. There's not much in the exchanger. It's a shallow cavity with an oil line running through it and the amount of antifreeze you'll use for piece of mind is worth the expense.

Personally I prefer using proper gaskets when possible. If you're going to use a caulk, make sure none oozes out on the inside. It won't present a problem for the Walter but it will end up in your oil cooler on the engine if that's the way your application's cooling circuit is run; from hull to the Walter then on to the engine. Not all are routed that way.

Thanks Viper, another site had it posted that there's some "honeycomb" weave that, if you have a saltwater boat, you should coat in epoxy. I wanted to make sure that same honeycomb pattern couldn't collect water and freeze crack. I couldn't get the supply tubes off, but I'll pump some antifreeze up through the exit port.

Doesn't seem like there's a reputable distributor that makes a top plate gasket for a reasonable price. Looks like I'll be making one out of a flat sheet of gasket material, or using permatex.

A honeycomb doesn't sound familiar. What model do you have?

Don't know where in Michigan you are but try contacting Anthony Keats Marine north of the boarder not far from Detroit. Heck, with the American dollar exchange, a gasket should cost you 5 cents
http://www.anthonykeatsmarine.com/

Viper wrote:Source of the post A honeycomb doesn't sound familiar. What model do you have?

Don't know where in Michigan you are but try contacting Anthony Keats Marine north of the boarder not far from Detroit. Heck, with the American dollar exchange, a gasket should cost you 5 cents
http://www.anthonykeatsmarine.com/

Thanks for the contact. My model is the RV-40. The gaskets that I found were around $35 online. That's ridiculous for a flat, cork gasket that I can make in 20-30 min. with a razor knife and a hole punch. I'll try your guy.

Sealed lots of gear cases with permatex ultra black, even when there was a thin gasket, very thin smear on each side...no leaks....no gasket same , just a little more......there is the Right Stuff for lots more...sometimes older parts don't fit quite like they used to and can use a little help.......good luck man.