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Re: Carver 280 overheating

Posted: July 16th, 2018, 3:34 pm
by Ricky mason
So here’s the pictures of the sea cock hoses and there positioning , I traced the unknown hose and it goes under the engine and from what I can see connects to the outlet of the exhaust which is below water line but I know that has a valve type system to stop water flowing back into exhaust and engine so my guess is that it helps with forcing the exhaust smoke and fumes out with the water forcing it out also not allowing water to flow back in , hope these pics help you !

Re: Carver 280 overheating

Posted: July 16th, 2018, 3:38 pm
by Ricky mason
I also found a few things that didn’t look to great I.e the seal on the sea strainer lid , some parts of the impeller housing ! Pics to follow !!

Re: Carver 280 overheating

Posted: July 16th, 2018, 3:41 pm
by Ricky mason
The whole engine bay too !! And here’s both impellers , left one is the first one removed and right is second one removed !

Re: Carver 280 overheating

Posted: July 16th, 2018, 4:02 pm
by bud37
Ok the verdict from me, which may be hard to take but here it is....Raw water pump needs a kit, strainer needs a new gasket ( can be made from cork ) all those hoses are dry rotted and cracked enough to cause you lots of problems, one I can see is bad enough to create your suction problem and you are going to have to follow that other hose again, because it cannot be plumbed to the exhaust outlet from the suction side of the raw water system or it would just pull exhaust gas etc and your raw water pump would cavitate then quit and destroy another impeller..hard to do when not there but the pics really help.....thats all I got man, Viper will be along soon .

Re: Carver 280 overheating

Posted: July 16th, 2018, 4:10 pm
by tomschauer
Hey, it looks like your sea cock had froze at one time and is cracked. If this is the case, replace it asap because it will break in half and you will have a lot of water in the boat with no way to stop it.
Also looks like you need to replaced cracked hoses and maybe some of the fittings are black iron. The need to be stainless or brass. When you address these, add a 90 to the top of the sea cock and you should be able to keep the strainer and feed hose below the water line. I don't know about that "t". I cant think of any reason it should be there. Maybe someone's way to drain the manifolds for winter? Again, hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like its time for a complete new raw water pump assembly not just an impeller. The strainer seats should be able to be cleaned up with some 00 steel wool.

Good luck!

Re: Carver 280 overheating

Posted: July 16th, 2018, 5:56 pm
by Ricky mason
Ouch . :banghead: , Thankyou for all your advice , i now have a much better understanding of the issues , and bud 37 you say about it pulling in exhaust gasses , well down in the cabin I keep getting the co2 alarm going off after the boats been running and sometimes whilst boat has been running that could quite possibly be the answer ! You genus lol ! I must add I’ve never stayed in the cabin after that’s gone off as it’s only been running while trying to fix issues so just been testing it luckily , i think I need to try find a way of removing this excess pipe and plugging the end which connects to the exhaust part somehow ? And removing the t section !

Re: Carver 280 overheating

Posted: July 17th, 2018, 6:53 am
by Viper
I echo all the thoughts noted above;
- the exhaust in the cabin could be a number of things including simply blowing in there if you have a door , hatch or window open. You should confirm the source though so you can take the proper precautions or remedy.
- I'm with Tom on replacing the entire pump. At the very least you need an impeller and the cam looks like it will tear up impellers. My thought though is that you put money into these minor things only to have a major rebuild in the near due to the corrosion where the shaft is and it starts leaking if it isn't already. If the mounting and sealing surfaces in the housing and shaft are bad, the rebuild kit won't do a thing.
- the hoses effeminately need to be replaced and as Bud said, may be contributing to you running dry. Ensure the replacement hoses are marine rated, wire wound and are smooth on the inside and not the same as the outside of the hoses you currently have.
- as Tom said, the seacock looks like it may be cracked, can't tell from that pic if it's scale/rust or cracks
- the fittings on the seacock are not brass or bronze, they should be.
- something doesn't seem right with the size of the hoses or the seacock. The fittings on top of the seacock look like they are reducing the port size. Measure the ports on the pump (1-1/4"?) and that's what you should have from the pump to the thru-hull fitting. I'm also curious to know if the fitting that the hoses are clamped to are barbed fitting or just threaded nipples. They need to be barbed and double clamped.
- you can buy gasket kits for those strainers
- the bonding system wiring and connections need to be cleaned up and the newer wire that's been added is of insufficient gauge.

There are a few issues noted with surrounding systems in the photos but one thing at a time! For now, focus on safety and getting her running.