winterization 1994 390 CPMY/LENGHTY!

[feeez]

Source of the post Make up a cheat sheet for your specific boat and check them off as you go when it's winterizing time. Something always interrupts the process!

+1 on the checklist after we are done the admiral and I sit down and diligently go through the list....

[cpoint]

Is there any carver 356 document for winterizing? I called bunch of places to get winterizing quote, including shrink wrap. First one got back to me with $2,333 no way going with the first option. Anyway as I wait for my quotes to come back, I figured I can do some of the stuff myself. Anyone with carver 356 aft cabin, can give me a list. I am assuming everything I read in this posting is pretty much it. I assume all water needs to be handled. I already emptied the tank by turning on all spigots. I have the inside hull dry (bilges). I prefer not to put antifreeze in water tank. So is it same deal putting antifreeze through back (where I hook up to shore water) with some pressurization as doing it by putting through pipe near water tank and run it with boats water pump? How many gallons should I get? that will cover all water outlets including 2 heads, showers. I been watching bunch of you tube on this, and see many putting the antifreeze into the water tank, which would be easiest for me also. I had preferred no to but, I do not drink from it anyway, I can clean the tank next season. any comment for or against on this?

Second thing in addition to water supply is engines and generator and AC units, is this correct. I am hoping I can get some one with some reasonable cost to do the engine, ac and gen. wish me luck...

Ohh one other thing, do I need to do anything with my batteries? I will be leaving the boat on water, so need the batteries to kick in if need be. should I leave the shore power on, battery charger on? I have 3 batteries, 1 for gen, should I leave that OFF (there is an on / off switch for it. and leave the other 2 on with switch on Both?

[mjk1040]

Well I start by draining the water tank, then applying air to the fresh water inlet and blowing all the water out of the lines.
I pump one gallon of antifreeze thru the fresh water inlet with the farthest faucet open. BTW I have disconnected the shower head lines at the facets. I then pour 5 gallons into the fresh water tank and pump it thru all the facets and toilets. I vacuum out the 2 shower sumps and drains coming into them and clean them and then pour antifreeze in the shower and floor drains till it reaches the shower sumps. Don't forget to unhook the ice maker water supply and run it until it quits making ice. Ice makers should not have antifreeze run thru them. I re-plumbed ours with a valve and pix so its easy to disconnect. Water system should be done. I purchased the Sea Flush system to do the AC and Genny. If ur in the water which you said u were, close the sea cock, open the sea strainer, remove the screen and clean. Vacuum out all the water u can, put on the Sea Flush funnel, tip a gallon of anti freeze into funnel and run the units. I usually run 2 gallons thru each just to be safe, even though a gallon should do it. Put the screen back in and cap it. Batteries u will need to leave as is with shore power still hooked and charger maintaining them. Make Sure ur holding tanks have been pump off and pour a couple of gallons of antifreeze in each tank too. Engines, I shut off the sea cocks, and I have the 5 gallon Camco unit with adaptor. I pull off the sea pump inlet hose hook up the Camco unit and run the engine until the anti freeze is gone. I do this twice for ten gallons in each engine.
The hose from the sea cock to the pump I vacuum out and pour antifreeze into and reconnect to the sea pump when done. If u are sure u are going to have shore power all winter, u could invest in a bilge heater and not have to winterize ur engines. Engine oil and filter should also have been changed at the end of the season. Dollar store moisture sucking units are nice to place in the cabin too. U could turn off the generator battery. Empty the fridge/freezer and prop the doors open. Viper informed me there is engine type pink antifreeze with added protection that u should use in the engines and not the Wal-Mart stuff, which I use every where else. Oh yes, should change fuel filters too, just in case u have any water in ur fuel, ur filters don't freeze and split and cause a fuel leak. Make sure u close the fuel valves before removing the filters. Think I got it all, if not someone will surely chime in, most likely Viper. LOL- Can't help u much with the shrink wrapping on water since ours is done on the dry. But if ur in a very low snow load u may want to consider investing in a cover one of the advertisers on here sells around $4-$5K. Here its around $4-$6 hundred to shrink a boat. Good luck, u can do it. Surprised u don't have the carver manual with ur boat so u can read the winterization process in there. Mike

[cpoint]

thanks mjk, good helpful information. I think I can do it. Engine I will get a pro to do it, but everything else I think wont be a problem. On generator is there anything else required other than running antifreeze through the water intake?
ice maker, missing part, which I purchased had not have time to tackle yet (from this forum). I have the documentation on boat, but the winterization list is not there. I looked online for downloadable pdf but did not see one. Anyway, appreciate your steps above, I will use it to get much done as possible this weekend.

Also on the bilge heater. I found on amazon that seems to have good reviews, if I use that will I need to do anything to engine other than run antifreeze through water intake?

[Viper]

Here’s a few additional notes off the top of my head:

If you have a raw water washdown on board, you'll need to do it as well. Remove the hose from the seacock and stick it into a jug of antifreeze. Turn the pump on, open the faucet until you see a good stream of antifreeze.

Unless you want to fill the hot water tank with that much antifreeze, you'll need to bypass it. Remove the inlet and outlet (hot and cold) water lines and hook them up to each other. Make sure you drain the tank. You’ll never get rid of all the water in it so pouring some antifreeze in it after its drained is recommended but it’s usually not enough water to worry about depending on the build. As mentioned before, this is the time you want to exercise the pressure relief valve as it’s an important safety feature that you want to ensure isn’t seized. If someone else is winterizing the engines and they are raw water cooled, they should be blowing out the heater’s heat exchanger circuit so that it fills with antifreeze when the engines are winterized.

Even though the ice maker doesn't work, if it was commissioned in the Spring, you'll need to winterize it or your water valve will split as there's probably water in it along with the line leading to it and the ice module itself.

As part of the fresh water system, don’t forget transom showers or faucets at the bow, windshield washer systems, washer/dryer, dishwashers, etc.

If you have a liquid based windshield defogging system, make sure that it’s winterized. Some run off the hot side of fresh water systems while others run off the engines.

For the generator as with the engines, drain the muffler and pull any raw water drain plugs, probe the drains in case they are clogged with debris (just like the engines), reinstall drain plugs, pour antifreeze in the strainer and run the genny until a buddy tells you there is a good stream of antifreeze coming out of the exhaust. Make sure you check the coolant in the heat exchanger to ensure it still protects to a reasonable temp with a safety margin depending on where she's stored. I shoot for about -40 up my way. If you have fresh water cooled engines, the people you have doing them should be checking that coolant too.

If you have Vacuflush toilets, make sure you flush a few times when you're doing the water system. This will get a few gallons in your holding tank and cycle antifreeze through the head's water valve. After you're done winterizing the fresh water system and have relieved the pressure, depress the toilet pedal so that you don't leave any antifreeze in the bowl above the ball.

Personally I would not rely on bilge heaters to get your engines through the winter. If they fail or there is a lengthy power failure, you'll be in for a huge expense. If you do get heaters, make sure they are rated for marine gasoline engine compartments.

Check battery fluid levels. If you have to top up, use distilled water and let them charge overnight. After leaving them to charge, disconnect and test. If they fail, pull them out now. If they pass, clean the tops, and terminals and leave them there for the winter.

Remove anything on board that might freeze like canned foods, cleaning fluids, etc.

Remove the batteries in your accessories like flashlights, clocks, detectors, etc. they don’t like the cold.

If your canvas is really tight in the summer, you may want to consider relieving the pressure in a few key spots by undoing a few snaps. The canvas shrinks in the winter and I’ve seen tears or pulled snaps because of it.

Don’t know other people’s take on this but I see a lot of folks putting dehumidifier products in their boats like No Damp for the winter. Here’s my take on that; it’s pretty dry over the winter anyway so why bother. It will likely need to be dumped and refilled about a month or less after you put the stuff in there so you’ll need to follow up and maintain or it’ll just be the same as not having it there at all. If you don’t use these in the Summer while away from the boat when it IS humid, then why winter? If you’re going to use the stuff, place it in a container or in a sink, I’ve seen them split and make a mess. Personally I think it’s better to just ventilate by opening up windows a crack.

After you’re all done, vacuum your bilge so you get all the water out. I recommend leaving as many hatches open as you can along with drawers, cupboards, openings under mattresses, etc.

Ensure at the end of it all that all sea cocks are left open.

If you suspect theft is a problem in your area, try not to attract any attention by leaving anything of value visible at a glance like trunnion mounted electronics on the bridge. Remove them and take them home or store below.

Finally, start a list of toys you want for next season and make sure your significant other knows about it.

[cpoint]

Thanks viper for additional info. but you are saying leave the sea cocks open? I thought they should be closed, since I am on water?

I am not familiar with raw water plugs, or raw water wash down though, I have to look into that, not sure where it is.

[Viper]

If the vessel is staying in the water for the winter, that's different. If you're winterizing systems in the water before haul out, then you'll need to close seacocks, winterize, then open the seacocks after the vessel is hauled out. If you come on land for the winter up north, you must leave your seacocks open allowing them to drain all the way or they will split if there's any water left in the valve body itself.

Personally I don't winterize anymore while the vessel is still in the water. Too often, I've run into leaking seacocks, and by the time the vessel comes out of the water, the antifreeze that was in the strainers or low enough hardware gets displaced by water because of the leak so you're back to draining the strainers again and anything else below the water line like AC pump, raw water pump, some toilet applications, etc.

On the generator, there's probably a raw water drain plug on the heat exchanger. If you can't find it, don't stress too much but make sure you're getting a lot of pink out the exhaust when you run it to winterize. Test what comes out if in doubt. Don't forget to drain the muffler first.

Raw water washdown is a faucet somewhere on the boat that draws water through the bottom of the hull. Some are placed at the transom or up at the bow for rinsing anchors, the swim platform, etc. These will incorporate a pump much like the one used for the fresh water system, and will be hooked up to a seacock typically in the engine bay. Not all vessels have these as they are optional.

If you're unsure about anything, you should get someone to do it as the cost to repair something you missed will outweigh what you tried to save. Ask if you can watch them winterize a particular system so you can do it yourself next time. Some guys are okay with that, some not so much. We're here to help but we can't see what we can't see.

[cpoint]

Thanks viper. Yes I do not have some of these things like raw water washdown, wipers on windows, as it is only controlled from topside. I have a shower on swim platform, to my knowledge that's extend of washing back deck. But I will check to make sure. And yes anything in doubt I will have a pro do it, but obvious things I think I can handle. As far as costly repairs, I had my hare as I have posted here on various subject matters. My port side cost me a fortune, finally got it under control and season is over. So definitely do not want to start next season problems

Is there a trick to draining the muffler in gen?

[Viper]

Source of the post .... I have a shower on swim platform, to my knowledge that's extend of washing back deck. But I will check to make sure......

If it's a transom shower with hot and cold water faucets it'll be part of your fresh water system so do it at the same time as all the other faucets.

Source of the post .....Is there a trick to draining the muffler in gen?

The muffler is separate from the genny. Follow the exhaust hose from the genny and it will lead you to the muffler. There should be a drain screw on the side of the muffler next to the bottom base. It could be facing any direction depending on the configuration, so if it's not facing you, feel around the base of the cylinder.

[mjk1040]

Darn, forgot the hot water heater, see cheat sheet check list. Told you Viper would get us over the hard parts. Mike