Non-Skid Replacement

[PCOMT]

I have a 1981 3007 aft cabin which we have been repairing for the last couple of years. It is coming along well and we are now at the stage of redoing the non skid on the aft deck and the fly bridge.

Last season, I scraped off all the existing non-skid and took every thing back to the gel coat. Then painted with an oil base, exterior grade industrial paint, recommended by a local repair guy. We then added non-slip crystals to the paint and rolled on a second coat.

Long story short, the resulting finish is not acceptable. The non-skid is not even, with the grit heavy in some areas and light in other areas. I tried to ensure even coverage, but I was not successful. On the plus side, the deck was definitely non-skid, but it looks bad.

I am looking at re-doing the work this spring, scrape it down again and then re-do the non-skid. I am looking for suggestions as to which product to use and any recommendations for application. I don't mind paying for the right product, as long as it is not gold plated...

How about it, can you help?

Thanks

[g36]

Don't know what you are looking for but have you considered something like seadek or similiar? This wouldcover your repair and also give you a nonskid to the deck. I have been thinking about something for my aft deck for my 405.

https://farm9.static.flickr.com/8106/86 ... 33bf_b.jpg

[PCOMT]

Thanks for the reply....

I have not looked at stuff like this, I think I will take a look and see if it would work.

I had thought of an indoor/outdoor carpet, but I am concerned it would be hard to keep clean.

[Viper]

The best way to redo the non-skid short of affixing a patterned sheet to the deck is to roll out a relatively thick coat of gel. Typically the gel gets applied, left to cure to a point where when touched, it will lift, create a peak and stay. The surface is then rolled out to create the texture. With practice and the right roller pile, you can achieve a heavy/aggressive or light texture/peaks and valleys. The technique takes practice to get an even/desired look throughout without visible roller edges. I would practice a few times on a piece of painted wood before doing the actual job to get a feel for it first. You will need to work fast once the gel kicks off. If you make a mess, it's not easy to clean it up and start over, and the gel is pricey.

You can also look into the following product that I've seen on a few boats. Pretty good product for the DYIer. Won't last as long as gel but pretty sure it's cheaper. Again, the resulting texture will depend on the roller you use and your application technique but I believe it's easier to work with than gel.

http://www.pyiinc.com/KiwiGrip/

Another option would be getting away from non-skid if it suites your needs and lay down one of the many synthetic decking products on the market. That's a pricier option though.

[Viper]

Source of the post The best way to redo the non-skid short of glassing in a patterned sheet to the deck is to roll out a relatively thick coat of gel. Typically the gel gets applied, left to cure to a point where when touched, it will lift, create a peak and stay. The surface is then rolled out to create the texture. With practice and the right roller pile, you can achieve a heavy/aggressive or light texture/peaks and valleys. The technique takes practice to get an even/desired look throughout without visible roller edges. I would practice a few times on a piece of painted wood before doing the actual job to get a feel for it first. You will need to work fast once the gel kicks off. If you make a mess, it's not easy to clean it up and start over, and the gel is pricey.

You can also look into the following product that I've seen on a few boats. Pretty good product for the DYIer. Won't last as long as gel but pretty sure it's cheaper. Again, the resulting texture will depend on the roller you use and your application technique but I believe it's easier to work with than gel.

http://www.pyiinc.com/KiwiGrip/

Another option would be getting away from non-skid if it suites your needs and lay down one of the many synthetic decking products on the market. That's a pricier option though.

[bud37]

A few years back I had a previous boat's front and side decks done with two part deck paint and non skid added.....looked ok but here is the thing , it did not last, three years and started to show thru.....so for me that would definitely be a question to be asked of whatever you choose to use.......

[PCOMT]

Thanks folks,

I took a look at the KIWI Grip video. This looks close to what I am looking for.

I hope someone that has used it can jump in here and share experience.

A couple of questions:
1- Was it good?
2- Would you use it again?

I have seen the finished product on a few decks at the marina, but have not been able to talk with the owners (yet)

Bud, I am of the same thoughts, Will it last??? I am already re-doing a bad job and don't want to have this become an annual task...

[Viper]

If you don't want to do it again or at least not for many years to come, gel is your best option IMO.

[mjk1040]

I'm DIY guy, but somethings I leave to those that have do it and done it well. Mike

[PCOMT]

Thanks guys,

Viper, When you say "Gel", do you mean "Gel Coat" or a different paint/process to create non-skid?

Mike, I too am a DIY kind of guy. I have considered a pro to do the work, but the boat is of such a vintage, and the cost of the pro, makes it a hard decision. I think I can do a quality job, even if it has to be redone in 5 years or so, I would be satisfied. The quality of the first job however, was not up to snuff and turned out heavy in some places and light in others. It is definitely non-skid, but not pleasing to my critical eye. I am hoping to do a better job the second time around.

Peter