1984 3207 Ignition Conversion

[paboater76]

Source of the post Yes I would fix the advance and change over to pertronix.
Springs are cheap if broken and rust is easy to clean up.
Make sure he checks the spring posts for wear and replace the parts of worn.
I'm a big fan of using as much oem as possible. In fact I use stock TBIV ignition on my 3 572s in Plain Vanilla. Only thing I changed was the modules and used V6-14 so I can dial in more initial advance for easier starting.

Thanks I understand the first part of your post, but getting foggy on the TBIV, modules v6-14. not sure what any of that is, lol. OEM = Original Equip Manu.

[paboater76]

Source of the post Yes I would fix the advance and change over to pertronix.
Springs are cheap if broken and rust is easy to clean up.
Make sure he checks the spring posts for wear and replace the parts of worn.
I'm a big fan of using as much oem as possible. In fact I use stock TBIV ignition on my 3 572s in Plain Vanilla. Only thing I changed was the modules and used V6-14 so I can dial in more initial advance for easier starting.

Thanks, I understand the first part of your post, but start to get lost on the TBIV, modules, v6-14 etc. I will buy OEM on the worn parts as you suggest.

[paboater76]

No not burning oil, I thought a compression test on a cold engine would yield lower numbers for sure. But I also read that once the engine was warm those 160- 170 psi numbers would only improve on a warm engine?

If there are any signs of the gears being worm or others I will look to replace them with YLM's

I will mention the vacuum to my guy and see if he wants to do it.

Thanks!

[waybomb]

Don't worry about the v6-14. These are used on v6 Mercs and on blower motors. On a 8 cylinder they produce less advance, so I can dial in more initial advance, for easier starting.

Has nothing to do with Crusader, sorry for the confusion. The point I was attempting to make is you don't have to spend alot of money on aftermarket stuff; the OEM works just fine. Even on 900 hp blower motors.

Have your guy inspect the distributor for worn bushings (will make timing bounce), worn advance spring pins (replaceable plate), change the springs as a practical measure, and make sure any rust is cleaned up and the advance actually works. And replace the points/condenser with Pertronix. You'll get another 20 years on her.

[paboater76]

Thanks for all the replies,

Ok, the more I get into this the more I am getting confused lol and dont know what to choose.

So if I keep my current yl624AV's, I get that the conversion kit etc and that does nothing for worn springs, weights, gears, bushings and shafts, I will have electronic sprark, but 30yo distribs.

I keep hearing, make sure the curve is set up right, total advance. etc. etc. If I buy new YLM624AV's is the curve already set up for a marine application? Set Base and TA and good to go?

If I keep my currents ones does anyone know of a good marine distributor shop that I can send them to for new springs, cleanup, and testing?

I cannot find springs for these YL's any help there would be greatly appreciated. Also by replacing the springs does that change the curve?

Where is a good source for marine parts for the YL624AV? Posts as said above, springs etc.

Thanks!

[paboater76]

Ok I will order 4 of the Pertronix conversion kits and stop worrying about it.

Just need to know where to order springs and spring posts if needed.

Thanks!

[bud37]

Those dizzies you have are the mallory ones, I had the same ones with another boat and used springs from a mallory curve kit from Mopar at the time but I believe you can still get that stuff from Summit racing,check out their site, lots of distributor choices as well if you want to get more confused, they will ship to your door.....yup guys with distributor machines that know how to use them are rare as hens teeth...try asking some hotrod guys near where you are. As for the springs , they will change the curve if they are different than what you took out, sometimes you can still tell what colors they are and change to the same ones.My belief is that marine specific dizzies come with the proper curves, but can be checked easily with timing tape and a good light.....

[waybomb]

You only need 2 kits.
One per distributor.

[waybomb]

Here's a breakdown of distributor parts:
http://www.marinepartssource.com/crusaderpb/3507dp45.asp

14 is the springs
15 are the advance weights (the pins may be worn)
17 is the main shaft that has the pins for the other end of the springs

[SplashyLady]

X2 on Pertronix and keeping the OEM distributor. There are several sets of springs and weights available that will give you different advance curves - and a good mechanic can order and set what you need. Most marine applications don't use a vacuum advance, but adding one can help fuel economy if you idle or run slowly a good bit. Again, vacuum advance is adjustable, so you want to add until you start to get denotation during acceleration, then back off a couple degrees.

The one oddball would be the Mercruiser electronic ignition - it uses a programmed advance that tied to the control module. Different animal there compared to a conventional mechanical system in a normal distributor.

Good luck!