Solar Panels

[tonyiiiafl]

I have been narrowing this down and ask for more input. 1994 390CPMY. 12V start, 12V genset, 2 6V GC Batteries house. 3 bank smart charger.

I have narrowed it down to these two systems. Both are expandable.

1). Go Power! Solar Flex Solar Charging Kit 200 Watts
Rated Output: 200 Watts, 11.36 Amps, 17.5 Volt DC
Includes: (2) Solar Modules, Controller, MC4 Connectors, Mounting Hardware
Solar Panel Dimensions: 44.6" x 21.4" x 0.1" Each (2 Panels)
Item #: 202232 Brand: Go Power Model #:
GP-FLEX-200

2).Xantrex Portable Rigid Solar Panel Kit - 160 Watt
Rated Output: 160 Watt, 8.34 Amps, 19.2 Volt DC
Includes: Solar Module, Charge Controller, Battery Connectors, Legs
Open Panel Dimensions: 55.9in x 26.4in x 1.4in
Item #: 205133 Brand: Xantrex Model #:
782-0160-01
Packaged Weight: 40.00 Lbs.

Both are expandable. I would mount on the aft hardtop. I am thinking flexible are better and easier to mount on the flat surface. How did any who have these mount them? I also assume that I would send the charge cables to the controller and then the batteries (house bank) and not worry about when under power (alternators charging) or when plugged into shore power or genset running? Controller would not collide with these other charge items?

Both are around $700.00. I would probably add an extra panel to brin Xantrex up to 320 watts, and GO Power up to 400 watts. It would certainly let me run genset a lot less when at a mooring.

Thanks and I look forward to the help in advice sent.

Tony

[chpsk8]

Do you use an inverter to run 110v in the boat, or are you just charging 12v and want to be able to keep them topped off?
I've been doing some light research on solar and was thinking of the flexible panels, some of which you can walk on if needed. I think it would be a cleaner install. Most just use silicone to adhere them to the roof, then run the wiring to the battery bank. I want to take it a step further and add in inverter so I could run a couple TV's at night, but I don't want to make the entire 110v panel run off the inverter, I just want a couple outlets to be hot at the most. Haven't crossed that bridge yet, Curious what feedback you'll get on the solar route.

[tonyiiiafl]

I have a separate inverter that is not integrated and works great for what I use it for. I agree with the cleaner installation. However, the flexible panels are only warrantied for 5 years as to output, the solid 1.25” thick panels are warrantied for a full 25 years for output. I would lOVE to have that hardtop covered with panels to avoid having to wax it! Lol. BOTH systems are expandable to 500 Watts.

[tomschauer]

Guys, don't get to hung up on the warranties, unless you are in a single panel application. The current and voltage output of these panels change all the time, the panels you buy today will be obsolete in a few months. If the manufacturer is still in business and honors their warranty, they will send you a new panel, after you ship the failed panel back to them for inspection. The new panel will almost never be compatible with your other panels or your inverter, so you end up with one new panel. If you want to use it, you have to replace everything else.

I worked for Schneider Electric (owner of Zantrex) for 15 years, just left last year.

[tomschauer]

Here is a "little" system my team and I installed a few years ago on St Croix.

[tonyiiiafl]

So, Tom. Would you go with the mono panels or the flexibly ones? FElxible are 2 panels to make 200 Watts, rigid one is 1 panel to make 190 Watts. I have solar on my house and only wished I could get SREC’s for the boat!

[Tireless]

I installed 4 110 watt panels on the hardtop of my fly bridge. They are wired two and two to reduce the wires from 4 wires to 2 wires and in the event there are shadows on one side or the other. They run to the 30 AMP controller that I installed in a cabinet in my Salon. You need to ensure that then wires are the proper gauge for the distance they run.

I installed a breaker on the positive line between the panels and the controller to protect the controller and give me the ability to turn the power off coming into the controller from the panels. This breaker is installed beside the the controller. Remember, the panels will always produce power, so its nice to be able to turn them off.

I installed 6 gauge wire to run from the controller to the house battery. The positive line has an on/off DC switch between the controller and the house battery to enable me to turn the power from the controller off. The switch is installed near my house battery in the bilge. I also installed a fuse on the positive lead at the battery.

I mounted the panels to the hard top using 1” stainless steel elevator bolts. I secured the flat side of the elevator bolts to a clean fibreglass hardtop with 3M 4200. These bolts line up with the 6 holes in each panel. The panels are bolted the elevator bolts with stainless steel washers and nylock nuts. I went on a big trip after the install and I had no issues with the panels moving. There are 3 other boats that have installed their panels in the same way with no issues.

I do not worry about DC power anymore while off the grid.

It was not recommended that the controller be installed in the bilge, however, I have diesels so sparks are not really an issue.

I can view my battery and charging details on an app on my phone.

Greg

[tomschauer]

I have no experience with the flexible panels, so i really can't comment on those.
If it was me, and I was looking for a permanent install i would go with the rigid panels.

[Midnightsun]

One thing to keep in mind, the hotter a panel gets the less it performs. A flexible panel directly on a roof cannot breath therefor suffers much more than if it were elevated to allow air flow underneath. They do need to dissipate heat to be most effective not to mention they will last a lot longer if not overheated.

[Tireless]

Source of the post One thing to keep in mind, the hotter a panel gets the less it performs. A flexible panel directly on a roof cannot breath therefor suffers much more than if it were elevated to allow air flow underneath. They do need to dissipate heat to be most effective not to mention they will last a lot longer if not overheated.

This is an excellent point raised by Midnight sun and I should have mentioned it.

This is why I used the elevator bolts. My panels do not rest on the fibreglass, however, I will be putting a spacer in the centre, on the under side of my panels to ensure more air flow.

Greg