VicB wrote:Source of the post So, somebody converted it to electronic ignition before I got it. Now with that said, I’m going to show my hand here. There are springs in the distributor and they are rusty. I liberally spray them with lubricant from time to time, but the points and condensers are gone. I’ve had the distributors out to remove the intake manifold on the starboard engine. When I put it back, I set initial and total timing and it fell right on the curve in the crusader manual timing chart. So if there is a 3 wire doughnut in place of points and condensers but still has springs is that considered electronic ignition with mechanical advance? Awesome catch on the anodes. One reason I don’t want it to be props is because the local place that did my bottom job and put the anode in upside down went out of business and the closest travel lift is 2 days away. BTW, I have always appreciated your posts and wisdom. You’ve been a huge help to me and many others. I need you to move to North Alabama.
Yes, if you have an electronic pickup to replace the points, but still have the springs in the distributor, then you have a mechanical advance. When you checked the base and total timing, did you check at all RPMs (at least up to 3200RPM or so?)
Even if the springs are rusty, can you rotate the rotor a bit and does it go quickly back to the initial position??
If the springs are weak then they might be adding to base timing and never achieve full mechanical advance (because you "baked in" too much of that advance when setting base timing). If your base timing at idle is around 10-12 and the timing advances to around 30-35 then you're OK, but if not you have some work to do on that mechanical advance.
You wrote "We normally run 2000 - 2500 rpm which is 10-12 mph." but initially said you could hit 3500 RPMs. What speed do you get to at 3500 RPM? Are you up on plane?
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