First Time Winterizing

[bud37]

Source of the post A new issue I just learned of. Apparently last year the mechanics on the marina used 10w-30 oil when on the engines it says to use SAE40. Would that cause problems? Does this mean I have to use 10w-30 when I do an oil change now?
Also what oil would you recommend for my crusaders?

Thank you everyone for all the advice.

IMO....You can be confident to just change the oil and filters and use whatever oil you want.....try to stick with the recommended oil for your engines.

The "W" part of the oil designation is basically for the ambient temps the engine starts up at, once the engine is running and warming up, the oil begins ( as I am given to understand ) to act as the thicker number at around 100 degrees oil temp not ambient.

Once past that point the engine oil does not care what temp it is outside. In cold climates starting an engine with a sump full of 30wt, 40wt or 50wt oil would require a serious battery and starter, and the engine would not get proper oiling for a while due to pumping issues...... We ( boaters ) really don't have that problem for the most part......

[AlexB]

Well the engine cover say sae 40 SF/SG, but that was in 1992. Oils have come a long way since then. And chevy does recommend 10w-30 which is weird to me. I am reading all over that people are usually using Rotella 15W-40 in their crusaders 454, but because the mechanics last year poured 10w-30, so I am a little hesitant to go to 15w-40.
IMO the weight of the oil should stay as the engine spec says, but I am not a mechanic or an oil guy.
I am thinking I will go with Rotella 10w-30.

One question that I came up with regarding water system winterization, once I drain the hot water heater and push antifreeze through the water system, should I unsure that its full of antifreeze? Does it need to be completely full?

[g36]

I also used rotella i wouldn't be concerned what was in it before, i had no idea what the previous owner did in my boat.

You don't need to worry about the water lines being full of antifreeze at the end. With the air and circulation of antifreeze the goal is to displace water that's in the system with a fluid that's not going to freeze by making sure you have a good flow of pink in all the water outlets and lines ,washdowns,outdide shower and sink drains. , sump boxes etc.etc.The main thing is make sure that there's is no left over water that could possibly burst a fitting or fixture.

[Viper]

If you're going to use automotive oil, change the oil in the Spring. If you're using proper "Marine" oil, you can change it in the Fall which is a much better time to change oil so your parts aren't coated with corrosives from old oil for an extended period in a static position.

Unless you know you'll be laid up for an extended period of time (more than a winter), I wouldn't worry about fogging. Certainly don't squirt oil in each cylinder or down a carb throat unless you absolutely know what you're doing, you could hydro lock the engine. If you feel you must fog, use a spray type fogging product. For the benefit of those that have newer catalyst engines, you want to be very careful here and use an oil (for fogging) that is specifically rated for that (catalyst engines) or it will cost you big $$$.

[tomschauer]

I run Mobil 1 15/50 in my MerCruiser 454's.
I recommend you pick a good quality oil and stick with it and change it regularly. It is the different additives in different oils that help build sludge in the engine.
I also do not fog my engines. Never did in any boat. I also never fogged engines in cars that i did not use over the winter. The rings will not seize up in a couple months, but over fogging may foul your plugs.

[AlexB]

I am planning to use Rotella T4 10w-30 oil. I am actually leaning to changing oil in the fall as the engines will be warm after I make a trip to the fuel dock to fill up. I read that sucking oil through a dip stick is better when the engines are warm. In the spring the engines and oil will be cold and I am worried it wont come up as well.
Thoughts?

[AlexB]

Oh here is another question.
On my boat the exhaust is halfway below water line. If I winterize on the water do I need to do anything to the exhaust ports after the boat is on land?
Knowing this would it be better to winterize on land?

[Phrancus]

Source of the post I am planning to use Rotella T4 10w-30 oil. I am actually leaning to changing oil in the fall as the engines will be warm after I make a trip to the fuel dock to fill up. I read that sucking oil through a dip stick is better when the engines are warm. In the spring the engines and oil will be cold and I am worried it wont come up as well.
Thoughts?

not the dip stick but another pipe that goes into the sump, use a hose that goes OVER that pipe so you have maximum size (rather than a thinner hose that goes into that pipe) as it quite a lot of oil that you'll be moving.

In the situation you describe, changing before the winter season fits you fine. There's a lot of discussion with pros and cons of when in the season to do this, in all cases: change it. and make it fit your personal maintenance way of working.

[Phrancus]

Source of the post Oh here is another question.
On my boat the exhaust is halfway below water line. If I winterize on the water do I need to do anything to the exhaust ports after the boat is on land?
Knowing this would it be better to winterize on land?

on the inside your exhaust goes upward and then to the engine, water pushed into the exhause should never be able to get close to the engine, that's why.
The ports may be under water but the rest won't be so it will flow emtpy when it's hauled out.


Same for stern drives: they drip empty of water (as long as it is where it is supposed to be. i.e.: not in the oil)

[AlexB]

I am planning to purchase this, from the look of it the clear pipe goes into the dip stick.

https://marinepartssource.com/heavy-dut ... pEQAvD_BwE