Bilges work on floats but not from helm switch

[Merkinbrumsky]

So this has been an issue since I owned the boat and needs to be rectified. Neither bilge pump will run from the continuous switch on the fly bridge and only the fwd one will run from the continuous switch on the lower helm. Both work on the floats. I’ve only gone as far as pulling the panels and checking connections there and checking the pumps for loose or unused wires. What next? Any ideas?

[g36]

Have you or anyone done anything in the past to the switch or pump,/floats? Connection might be reversed on the switch ir float. Since im unable to draw a diagram on my phone to post. The easiest would be to google a bilge pump wiring diagram with auto and float switches in the circuit. And using a volt meter verify power at the connections for switch, pump wiring and float locations while some one( which will save you from going back and forth,)switches the power at the switch. If the pump works in some fashion it's just a incorrectly wiring issue and a matter of looking at the switch connections or the float. Imo

[Merkinbrumsky]

I haven’t touched the wiring. Who knows what was done before. I’m sure the bilge pumps aren’t OEM though as the boat is an 85 vintage 28 voyager. I will bring the multi meter with me next time and do some testing. I was wondering if maybe I was missing something obvious before I start pulling panels off again. Thanks for the reply.

[km1125]

Not sure on that vessel, but many Carver boats of that vintage have separate supply circuits that power the float switch than those that power the manual switch(es). Sometimes the 'auto' (float) breakers are located at or near the main DC power selector switch and the manual breakers on the main DC panel.

[bud37]

Source of the post I haven’t touched the wiring. Who knows what was done before. I’m sure the bilge pumps aren’t OEM though as the boat is an 85 vintage 28 voyager. I will bring the multi meter with me next time and do some testing. I was wondering if maybe I was missing something obvious before I start pulling panels off again. Thanks for the reply.

Do the switches/breakers on the main 12vdc panel there still do anything? Just forward and aft, correct ? Likely over the years things have been changed, could even be the replaced pumps. Yup I'm guessing your in for a multimeter weekend. Good luck man...

[Merkinbrumsky]

quote="bud37"]Source of the post

Source of the post I haven’t touched the wiring. Who knows what was done before. I’m sure the bilge pumps aren’t OEM though as the boat is an 85 vintage 28 voyager. I will bring the multi meter with me next time and do some testing. I was wondering if maybe I was missing something obvious before I start pulling panels off again. Thanks for the reply.

Do the switches/breakers on the main 12vdc panel there still do anything? Just forward and aft, correct ? Likely over the years things have been changed, could even be the replaced pumps. Yup I'm guessing your in for a multimeter weekend. Good luck man... [/quote]

The switches still work, and yes just fwd and aft. Got up to the boat Sunday afternoon and dug in right away. After closer inspection it turns out a PO had stuffed the wire coming from the switch panels back into a wire chase. The connection to the power on the float switch had been made with electrical tape, perfect for a bilge pump. I’m guessing the the wire from the switch panel came loose from the electrical tape connection and since the pump still worked on the float, somebody figured it was a not needed mystery wire and just stuffed it back up the pipe. Anyway, some quick heat shrink connections and it’s all back up and running as it should. Thanks to all those who replied. Nice to have a pretty easy win for once. Actually got to enjoy some time on the boat.