dsolo wrote:Source of the post ...Found loose anodes on drive shafts....Where should they be positioned?
...Should there be anodes on the trim tabs?
...Props look good. No cracks or dings showing. Should they be inspected for balance?...
As mentioned above, the shaft anodes should be very close to the struts.
If you don't currently have anodes on the tabs and don't seem to have a corrosion issue, then I wouldn't bother adding additional protection. As mentioned, you want to ensure the current anodes aren't zinc. If they still look pretty much intact and don't seem to have lost much material, then they probably are zinc and must be replaced. For inboard applications, use aluminum anodes. Not everybody carries them so it may be a challenge to find, but they are getting more popular as retailers hop on the bandwagon.
If the props look okay and you're not experiencing any vibration, then the props may be fine. Having said that, an un-tuned prop isn't always visible to the naked eye. I've been doing this a long time and even I've been surprised at how bad some seemingly good props turned out to be even though there were no visible signs. It's a judgement call; if you take them off yourself, it won't cost you anything as most prop shops check them for free. If they find they are within spec, then you haven't lost anything and now have peace of mind. If they do find them to be off, then it will cost to remedy, and again you will have peace of mind.
The list can quickly get out of hand...where do you stop?! Tackle the things that need to be done while out of the water first. After launch, replace the impellers, belts, oils, and filters. Unless you're experiencing runability issues, ignition components can wait a little longer for your wallet to recover.
Curious; I know you said heated storage, did they winterize the boat?