New Inverter/House Bank

[vineyardgray]

Source of the post I was getting concerned because that unit is not rated for installation in a gasoline engine bay. Technically, neither is the fuse in the picture.

Do you suggest I move that fuse inside?

[Viper]

If the installation requires doubling up your wiring on each side, you must also do the same at the batteries for connecting them in series. The effective wire size must be used throughout the entire circuit which includes the wiring connecting the batteries to each other. In your case, solid bars are used for some of the battery connections, they also need to be rated for inverter load at full output.

You should also use terminal covers on the posts of the switch and fuse block. I believe those blocks have custom covers available.

I mentioned that the fuse in the picture is not specifically stated to be ignition proof for gas engine bays. You should ask the electrician about that. It may be recommended in the installation manual but they are likely assuming you're installing it outside of the engine compartment since the inverter isn't rated to be there. It would be fine if it were a diesel application. Unless something has changed, I believe the only high amperage fuse for inverter installations that is specifically stated to be ignition proof is the ANL type.

[vineyardgray]

On the subject of stock metering, this one is OK because I actually have 50a coming onto that leg of the panel:

IMG_20190927_2130240.jpg

[vineyardgray]

But what is going on here? This AC Volt meter is totally out to lunch. There is no reason I need to meter 30v ac because nothing is going to be working correctly at that voltage. It would be nice to know if I'm over 130v and under 110v. Otherwise this meter is 90% nonsense.

IMG_20190927_2130494.jpg

[Viper]

Source of the post

Source of the post I was getting concerned because that unit is not rated for installation in a gasoline engine bay. Technically, neither is the fuse in the picture.

Do you suggest I move that fuse inside?

That would be my recommendation unless you have literature stating that it is ignition proof. Historically they never have been unless they've changed the design recently. Your electrician might know if that's the case. If something goes wrong, you don't want to give your insurance company a way out of paying a claiming.

[vineyardgray]

Source of the post If the installation requires doubling up your wiring on each side, you must also do the same at the batteries for connecting them in series. The effective wire size must be used throughout the entire circuit which includes the wiring connecting the batteries to each other. In your case, solid bars are used for some of the battery connections, they also need to be rated for inverter load at full output.

You should also use terminal covers on the posts of the switch and fuse block. I believe those blocks have custom covers available.

10-4. I will double up all the battery connections. The tinned copper bus bars are very robust and I have no concerns about them but I will check max amperage with Firefly.

There is a snap on cover for the fuseblock that will be installed after I torque everything down. There are no covers available for the Blue Seas disconnect.

I mentioned that the fuse in the picture is not specifically stated to be ignition proof for gas engine bays. You should ask the electrician about that. It may be recommended in the installation manual but they are likely assuming you're installing it outside of the engine compartment since the inverter isn't rated to be there. It would be fine if it were a diesel application. Unless something has changed, I believe the only high amperage fuse for inverter installations that is specifically stated to be ignition proof is the ANL type.

I can move the fuse inside without too much difficulty. Blue Sea does note that their 400A Class T fuse block *is* ignition protected, so not sure what to do here.

[Viper]

Out of curiosity, how long is the DC circuit for the inverter?; length of positive from battery bank, to the fuse, breaker, and to the inverter, plus length of negative wiring from the inverter back to the battery bank.

[vineyardgray]

Well the inverter/charger will be installed on the bulkhead same side as the battery bank, port. I have left some extra cable to get the inverter outside the locker if I need to for troubleshooting, so say 16 feet full circuit?

I had originally planned for the inverter charger to be starboard side in a locker quite a bit further forward, so the dual 1/0 took that into consideration.

Why do you ask?

[vineyardgray]

I have to tie the house bank into the existing system 12v negative which is easy enough at the port engine. Question - do I need to carry on with the double 1/0 here as well? I believe existing is AWG#2.

How about the negative to the panel?

How about the 12v positives to the panel?

I was going to tie into the original wiring and leave it alone - my rationale being that the existing wiring was good enough for the existing load.

Thoughts?

[Midnightsun]

Nice setup and well done so far.

My only comment is that is a big inverter/charger however you have only 450AH of bank available? What are your intentions for the inverter use? I run dual 6v 435AH L16 flooded which is similar and without inverter drawing a bunch of juice I am considering going to 4 units for a total of 870AH.

As for voltmeter I agree, did something similar to monitor a little more precisely.