Hi Everyone,
I need to replace my original Furuno Radar on my 396.
I'm looking for and inexpensive unit as I no longer go offshore, mostly Barnegat Bay to Atlantic City, NJ.
I would like to do this myself along with my son. Can anyone give some advice as to start this project?
Which ever unit I purchase I will be buying a new compatible multi function GPS unit after the radar is done.
Any help would be much appreciated.

Can anyone tell me how to get to the A/C unit on 32ft Mariner without taking the cabinets out?

I am in the process of purchasing a 1987 Carver 3607 aft cabin model. The boat will need to be moved about 400 kms. At the moment, I am trying to find the overall height of this model and not having any luck. It is not possible to do the measuring myself because I live far away. Also, since it is winter, the boat is buried under snow. I am looking for the measurements from the top of the helm on the fly bridge to the bottom keel. If someone would have any information to share, please reach out.

Thanks

I am actively looking for a Carver Sojourn 44 to buy. Cash in hand, serious buyer. I have owned a Carver Mariner for 15 years and am looking to upgrade and the Sojourn is the model I have decided on.

The only two criteria are:
1. Must have the Crusaider 8.1 engines - NO PODS
2. Freshwater

I am in Colorado but will coordinate shipping from anywhere in the US for the right boat!

Please send any details/photos of Sojourn you have that you are interested in selling.

Thanks!

Any 506 or 564 all Glass...
How do you replace the wiper blade? do you stand on the metal grab bar?


Thanks guys in advance

Hello, we just bought a 1995 330 Mariner and are going to spend the next 6 months updating a few things before we move aboard this fall. She’s in pretty good condition but needs a little lovin. I’m sure we’ll be perusing a lot of posts and probably posting a few new ones as we dig in. Thanks in advance for the knowledge and wisdom!

Cheers, Ben and Rosie

Ok, I’ve been able to figure out and address most of the “previous Owner” changes but this one still has me baffled. A PO had a damn nice JL Audio stereo installed and was clearly professionally done complete with two 5ch amps, subs, and two very expensive Stinger AGM batteries cleanly wired (and fused) in parallel as its own bank so as not to pull down the others. Here’s the puzzler that I’m hoping the electricians here can explain. They ran very heavy gauge Pos and Neg cables from the Stinger batteries to the engine room to charge off the main charger (and I’m guessing alternators) but ran the Neg cable to the Neg terminal on the House battery and the Pos cable (fused at the battery) to the Pos terminal on the Port starter battery. You can see the cable and fuse in second pic. Why the split across the two charging banks/batts? I hope my drawing illustrates what I’m describing. And for additional info, the main charger is a 3 bank with 1 each to the 2 starting and 1 house batteries. Genny has its own.

I’m looking for someone who has a 350 Mariner that’s wired for 220v. If you do, could you send me a link to your wiring diagram?

I have my 350 Mariner 110v boat overseas and have been using modified tool transformers as step-down isolation transformers. It’s worked great, but my microwave is getting old and I’ll probably replace the original 24-year-old AC with a newer variable-speed 12v AC (Mabru). The Charles battery charger still works, but Charles is out of business, so I can upgrade to a newer dual-voltage version. I presently have solar 25w trickle chargers on the starter batteries.

Except for the water heater, which I don’t really need, that’s all my 110v loads.

On my last haul out, I pulled the Kohler generator since it never ran well. I’m thinking about going solar with a LiFePO4 power station like EcoFlow or Anker Solix. Victron is good but more complex and expensive for my scenario and usage pattern. The Ecoflow has an alternator DC-DC charger that can recharge the batteries while the engine is running but go idle when not, so it won’t drain the lead-acid starter batteries. Since these power stations only come in 220v versions, I’m still stuck with running them through the step-down transformer via the original generator input. I was planning to run a separate 220v loop on the boat connected directly to the power station to power local appliances like a kettle and a Nespresso.

But then I had an idea: if my 110v loads are so few and can be replaced with 220v or 12v systems, is it possible to just run the 220v through the 110v panel? The advantage of USA boats overseas is the heavy solid-core Romex electrical cables vs the stranded smaller gauge wiring used in Europe. The 110v breakers are rated at 30 amps. According to Ohm’s law, as voltage increases, the amperage decreases, but the power stays the same. I’ll still use an isolation transformer for when I occasionally use shore power. Our sailing profile is usually only day trips to local coastal waters. Overnights usually at dockside.

What do you think?


Items referenced above
https://uk.ecoflow.com/products/delta-p ... er-station
https://www.anker.com/uk/a1780?ref=1780 ... heckspecs#!
https://us.ecoflow.com/products/800w-alternator-charger

Ok. Give up. How the H E double hockey sticks do you get to the aft engine room wall to replace the light bulbs or work with any of the electrical systems? I honestly think the entire exhaust would have to come out to get to either side and that can’t be right, right? Port side has a light and both chargers with the muffler damn near touching them. Stbd has its own light and all the switches and breakers and it’s own muffler blocking too. I even figured out how to pull up the stairs but the exhaust was still in the way. PLEASE tell me there’s an access panel over it I’m missing or maybe got covered up on a re carpet?

I have a close friend, looking for a 396. If you know of any, let me know. Prefer it to be in Great Lakes area. Thanks. er