Living aboard a 366 and having salon ac problems. I’ve replaced the aft ac which is easily accessible as it’s under the bed. The forward berth ac the same. How the heck do you get to the midship ac system?

Does anyone know location of AC trigger switch box
456 motor yacht year 2000
5 air conditioners on boat operating through 2 pumps

I found electrical box with ac wires running through it for my 2 units (bridge and aft deck), assuming these are trigger switches to activate the pump (both units on one pump)

My other 3 units use another pump. 2 of these work fine but 3rd unit (salon) turns on but doesnt activate pump , no water being discharged.

I know my pump, sea strainer etc. Are not clogged. Assuming there is a trigger switch or something failing to activate pump.

These are marine air units.

Appreciate any assistance

Anyone know of a place to purchase the 12v fluorescent bulbs for a 89,3807 in Ontario?

There's a box located in the salon cabinet where the stereo and entertainment system is (was). Looks like it has a couple of incoming wires but the output is going to a 120V outlet inside the cabinet. Can someone help identify what this box is for?

The breaker for it in the circuit panel is labeled "SPARE". It makes a loud humming noise when turned on. Could this have been for an old A/C system or something?

Hi all,

I’ve done a bit of reading on this but wanted to get your opinions. Our marina has permanent fixed (not floating) docks, and for multiple reasons I find it is much easier to get in and out of the slip, as well as board the boat, when we go in bow first. However, on our 325, the shore power inlets are located on the stern in the deck box, so it is a challenge to connect up our shore power with standard 50’ cords.

We have dual 30a AC service. One for air conditioning and the other to run all other AC powered accessories.

I’ve gotten by with running 50’ 30a cords down the side of the boat (secured to the railing) to this point, and thought there was enough slack in the cords to not be an issue, but we just had a particularly severe storm go through and the rocking of the bow yanked out both shore power cords from the pedestal. Not good. Now I’m very reluctant to run them down the boat and off the bow again.

I’m strongly considering running 50’ cords down our dock and connecting them to 25’ cords using sealing collars. I know this isn’t ideal, but it would give us plenty of slack and we could run the cords directly from the dock to the stern, so it would be so much cleaner and easier to manage. For what it’s worth, lots of other boats in our marina go into their slips bow first and connect two shore power cords like I’m suggesting.

To check the voltage drop, I tested out connecting two 50’ cords and I was still getting about 112 volts at the panel, which seems fine to me, and I think it would be even less drop at 75’ instead of 100’.

I’m not worried about the “accessories” breaker because the amperage draw is pretty minimal on that one. Mostly just running the refrigerator and battery charger, occasionally the TV, etc. It’s usually not more than a few amps. We almost never run the higher draw accessories like the water heater or electric stove.

I am worried about the air conditioning running on an extended cord since that is a much higher draw. Is this a bad idea? As long as I’m getting 110v+ and the connection isn’t hot, are we ok? I typically don’t run the air conditioning for more than an hour or two at a time, and I never run it when we are away from the boat. So I think the risk is pretty minimal, but I don’t want to do something stupid. I know it can be really hard on the air conditioning units if they aren’t getting the proper voltage. I thought about buying new 25’ and 50’ 50a cords for the air conditioner just to minimize the voltage drop, but they’re so incredibly expensive and I’m not sure it’s necessary.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

I'm wanting to switch out the water heater in my boat. The current one has coolant lines coming from the engine but I'm replacing it with one which doesn't need the lines. Are the plugs which go into these ports a standard part, or was this some aftermarket setup?

I did see a diagram which shows the bottom port having a plug with part number 9S-4185, but it was a bit confusing because the part shows "threaded" but the picture isn't. https://parts.cat.com/en/mustang/9S-4185

Similarly, for the top port I found a diagram with part number 9S-8005. Says threaded but picture doesn't match.
https://parts.cat.com/en/mustang/9S-8005

Here are the locations on the engine with the water heater:



Here are the corresponding locations with the plugs on the engine without the water heater:

We are new owners of a 2003 Carver 466 with Volvo TAMD75 engines. Does anyone have any documentation on the service manual for these Volvos? Any boat wiring diagrams or additional manuals you could send me?

Thanks so much!

I recently purchased a 89, 3807. In the survey it was noted that the aft transom window should be replaced with one that opens so it can be used as a second point of escape. Is it possible that the window is made to "pop out" when hit with sufficient force? Really don't want to replace with one that opens thus adding another point for future water leaks.

Good afternoon everyone and all.
I am so glad I came across this forum. I bought a Carver 28 foot Voyager with Flydeck, fixed props. We have to move it back to our place, about 5 hour drive.
Currently, I am fixing up a tri axle trailer 18k total gross.
My question is does anyone have experience with the TRAILER CONFIGURATION as I finalize "fabricating" my trailer? Detailed pictures of a trailer that hauls a 28ft Carver would be awesome
My boat has a keel, two shafts, each one with a strut and rudders.
PS I have hauled heavy haul oversized loads with semi and lowboy. But never a boat on a fixed trailer. I am a tad clueless lol.
Thanks Cliff

Good afternoon everyone and all.
I am so glad I came across this forum. I bought a Carver 28 foot Voyager with Flydeck, fixed props. We have to move it back to our place, about 5 hour drive.
Currently, I am fixing up a tri axle trailer 18k total gross.
My question is does anyone have experience with the TRAILER CONFIGURATION as I finalize "fabricating" my trailer? Detailed pictures of a trailer that hauls a 28ft Carver would be awesome
My boat has a keel, two shafts, each one with a strut and rudders.
PS I have hauled heavy haul oversized loads with semi and lowboy. But never a boat on a fixed trailer. I am a tad clueless lol.
Thanks Cliff